salo
alessandro michele
Leaves Gucci
Kalmomi By: sharon edelson
Image Courtesy of Gucci
There must be nary a dry eye at Kering today. A maimakon haka, giant ɗin alatu yana tunanin makomarsa ba tare da taimakon tsabar kuɗi mai ƙira da daraktan ƙirƙira ba, Alexander Michael, wanda ya sanar kwanaki biyu da suka wuce cewa zai bar gidan fashion. I mana, Kering zai maye gurbin Michele tare da matashi mai haske wanda ya kammala karatun makarantar fashion - saboda a cikin kamfanoni na Amurka, ko Ingila, don wannan al'amari - babu wanda ba zai iya maye gurbinsa ba.
Kamar cat, Gucci ya sami rayuka da yawa a cikin tarihin shekaru 64, harda rikicin dangi, yunkurin daukar nauyin, Kusa da fatara, jerin jama'a, juya littafin labari, har ma da kisan kai. Ga dukkan alamu, An sanar da cewa kamfanin ya mutu a lokacin da Bergdorf Goodman, Dawn Mello ya kwashe Tom Ford wanda ba a san shi ba daga Makarantar Zane ta Parsons., yana ba shi cikakkiyar kulawar ƙirƙira don haɓaka alamar. Sauran tarihi ne. Saurin ci gaba zuwa 2022, da Sara Gay Forden [tsohon abokin aikina a WWD da W] m littafin, "Gidan Gucci" aka sake shi, Ridley Scott ne ya jagoranci. Fim ɗin ya fito da wata mata mai satar fage mai suna Lady Gaga a matsayin Patrizia Reggiani, the murderous ex-wife of Gucci founder and designer Maurizio Gucci.
Ford plays a pivotal role in the film, paving the way for Michele's singular vision for the brand. Founded by Guccio Gucci, Hukumar Lafiya ta Duniya, as legend goes, in 1897 was a bellboy at London's sophisticated Savoy Hotel, where he was inspired to create Gucci by the luxurious suitcases and trunks of the aristocrats staying at the hotel. Ford associated the brand with luxury and aristocratic pastimes, such as horse-riding, wanda ya haifar da sa hannun alamar doki-bit kayan ado kayan ado akan jakunkuna, kaya, kayan ado, da tufafi.
Idan Ford ya share hanya ga Michele, k'aramin zanen ya d'auka da karfin hali ya tashi da gudu. Ilham da yanayi, Michele ta gabatar da motifs da aka aro daga ganye, tsire-tsire, furanni, dawakai, macizai, da sauran dabbobi. Ƙwararriyar kyan gani ta buga ƙima tare da Baby Boomers da Millennials, wadanda suka kasance nostalgic ga alamar ta sa hannu, wanda yayi sarauta lokacin suna jarirai da yara.
The aesthetic of the two designers couldn't have been more different. Ford favored a sleek "disco" club look featuring sexy and slinky silk dresses with few embellishments. Gucci's popularity shot up immediately. If Ford was a minimalist, Michele was a maximalist in the best sense of the world.
Michele's penchant for the natural world manifests itself in his signature bees, buzzing across small leather goods and handbags, including the now-iconic snake handbags with heavy metal serpents gracing the front of the handbag.
Michele revisited Gucci's iconic double G logo, canvas bags, and horse-bit loafers, which in his quirky hands became fur-lined slippers and clogs, further driving sales of the accessories division — historically the cash cow of the brand. Logo bags came next hand-painted with flowers or embroidered with giant insects — a theme Michele continued to explore during his time at Gucci.
Michele in 2015 was plucked from the ranks of Gucci's leather accessories division, where he worked under then-creative director Frida Gianninni. Michele's style helped Gucci to regain its place in the fashion pantheon by attracting a younger customer. The house's double G logo and iconic horsey imagery fueled the brand's growth of 35%-plus for five consecutive quarters, prompting then-CEO Marco Bizarre to call for a 10 billion euro revenue target in June of that year.
Michele has publicly shown interest in the film industry – ironically, where Tom Ford parked himself following his defection from the fashion house. Five years after his first show at Gucci, in the middle of the global Covid-19 pandemic, Michele upended another fashion convention – he declared he wouldn't adhere to the fashion industry's "worn-out ritual of seasonalities and shows." Rather, he opted to regain a new cadence, "closer to my expressive call. We will meet just twice a year, to share the chapters of a new story," Michele proposed, conceiving new names for the collections inspired by the music world.
If the words Rock Star come to mind when thinking of Michele, you wouldn't be too far off. His nearly eight-year tenure – a lifetime in the fashion industry – ended because he reportedly wanted to produce a couture collection, and Kering nixed the request. I mana, Michele won't be a lone ranger for long. He'll likely be snapped up quickly for his singular aesthetic and proven design sensibility, not to mention his leadership skills. The world can only wait and see what his next project will be.