zam
alessandro michele
Yoojyim Gucci
Lo lus los ntawm lo lus: sharon edelson
Duab courtesy of Gucci
Yuav tsum muaj nary ib qhov muag qhuav ntawm Kering hnub no. tiag mas, Cov khoom kim heev giant yog contemplating nws lub neej yav tom ntej tsis muaj kev pab los ntawm nyiaj ntsuab designer thiab muaj tswv yim thawj coj, Alessandro Michele, Leej twg tshaj tawm ob hnub dhau los uas nws yog tawm hauv lub tsev zam. Tau mas, Kering yuav hloov Michele nrog ib tug hluas zam kawm tiav – vim nyob rau hauv neeg America, los yog hais, rau qhov teeb meem – tsis muaj leej twg yog ib tug irreplaceable.
Zoo li ib tug miv, Gucci muaj ntau lub neej nyob rau hauv nws keeb kwm 64 xyoo, nrog rau tsev neeg feuds, me nyuam no yuav siv sij hawm li me nyuam no, ib tug nyob ze-bankruptcy los ua ntaub ntawv bankruptcy los, ib daim ntawv teev cov pej xeem, storybook turnarounds, thiab txawm tias ib tug tua neeg. Rau tag nrho cov intents thiab lub hom phiaj, Lub tuam txhab ntawd txais tuag thaum Bergdorf Goodman executive Dawn Mello plucked tus tsis paub Tom Ford ntawm Parsons tsev kawm ntawv ntawm Design, Muab nws muaj tswv yim tswj evolve lub hom. Tas yog keeb kwm. ceev rau pem hauv ntej 2022, Thiab Sara Gay Forden tus [Kuv tus colleague ntawm WWD thiab W] phau ntawv, "Lub tsev ntawm Gucci" tawm, Qhia los ntawm Ridley Scott. Tus blockbuster zaj duab xis starred ib scene-stealing poj niam Gaga li Patrizia Reggiani, Tus murderous ex-tus poj niam ntawm Gucci founder thiab designer Maurizio Gucci.
Ford plays ib pivotal luag hauj lwm nyob rau hauv naam, paving qhov uas rau Michele tus singular tsis pom kev zoo rau lub hom. Founded los Guccio Gucci, Leej twg, Raws li lus dab neeg mus, hauv 1897 Yog ib tug bellboy nyob rau London sophisticated Savoy tsev so, Qhov twg nws yog inspired los ua Gucci los ntawm cov luxurious suitcases thiab trunks ntawm lub aristocrats nyob hauv lub tsev so. Ford associated lub hom khoom kim heev thiab aristocratic pastimes, xws li nees-caij tsheb, Uas tau muab sawv rau lub hom kos npe nees-tom decorative hardware rau handbags, Nra, nyiaj kub, thiab apparel.
Yog Ford paved txoj kev rau Michele, Tus hluas designer muab lub reins thiab confidently tau mus tua thiab khiav. Tshwm sim los ntawm xwm, Michele nkag tau motifs borrowed ntawm herbs, nroj tsuag, Paj, nees, nab nab, thiab lwm yam tsiaj. Tus aesthetic ntaus ib chord nrog tus me nyuam Boomers thiab Millennials, Leej twg muaj nostalgic rau lub hom kos npe, uas reigned thaum lawv cov me nyuam mos liab thiab cov me nyuam me.
Tus aesthetic ntawm ob designers tsis tau sib txawv. Ford favored ib sleek "tsis xis nyob" Qws saib featuring tau ntxim hlub thiab slinky silk tiab nrog ob peb embellishments. Gucci tej chaw txhaj tshuaj tam sim ntawd. Yog Ford yog ib minimalist, Michele yog ib maximalist nyob rau hauv qhov kev txiav txim zoo tshaj plaws ntawm lub ntiaj teb no.
Michele tus penchant rau lub ntiaj teb manifests nws tus kheej hauv nws kos npe bees, buzzing hla tawv zoo thiab handbags, Xws li cov tam sim no-iconic nab handbags uas hnyav hlau serpents gracing pem lub taub hau lub handbag.
Michele revisited Gucci iconic coj G logo, hnab, thiab nees-bit loafers, Uas nyob rau hauv nws txhais tes quirky los ua fur-lined slippers thiab clogs, Ntxiv txog kev tsav tsheb hauv phau Vajlugkub— keeb kwm txog cov nyiaj ntsuab ntawm lub hom. Logo hnab tuaj tom ntej hand-pleev xim rau paj los yog embroidered nrog giant insects — ib tug michele txuas ntxiv mus tshawb thaum nws lub sij hawm thaum Gucci.
Michele hauv Michele 2015 Yog plucked ntawm lub ranks ntawm Gucci tus tawv accessories faib, Qhov twg nws ua haujlwm nyob rau hauv ces-muaj tswv yim thawj coj Frida Gianninni. Michele style pab Gucci rov qab nws qhov chaw nyob rau hauv lub zam pantheon los attracting ib tug neeg hluas. Lub tsev coj G logo thiab iconic horsey imagery fueled lub hom kev loj hlob ntawm 35%-plus rau tsib sib law liag lub quarters, prompting ces-CEO Marco Bizarre hu rau ib tug 10 Kuj euro nyiaj phiaj nyob rau lub rau hli ntuj xyoo ntawd.
Michele muaj qhov qhia txaus siab rau naam kev lag luam – ironically, Qhov twg Tom Ford parked nws tus kheej tom qab nws defection ntawm lub tsev zam. Tsib xyoos tom qab nws thawj qhia ntawm Gucci, Nyob nruab nrab ntawm lub ntiaj teb no Covid-19 pandemic, Michele upended lwm zam convention – nws txais nws tsis adhere rau txoj kev lag luam zam txoj kev lag luam "worn-out ritual ntawm seasonalities thiab qhia tau hais tias." Theej, Nws opted rov qab ib cadence tshiab, "los ze zog rau kuv expressive hu. Peb yuav ntsib xwb ob zaug ib xyoos, muab cov tshooj lus ntawm ib zaj dabneeg tshiab," Michele npaj tseg, conceiving npe tshiab rau cov collections inspired los ntawm lub suab paj nruag ntiaj teb.
Yog hais tias cov lus pob zeb hnub qub tuaj siab thaum xav michele, Koj tsis tau deb deb. Nws ze li ntawm yim xyoo tenure – ib lub neej nyob rau hauv txoj kev ua lag luam zam – twb vim nws reportedly xav ua ib couture sau, thiab Kering nixed thov. Tau mas, Michele yuav tsis tau ib tug ranger rau ntev. Nws yuav tau snapped sai sai rau nws singular aesthetic thiab proven tsim sensibility, Tsis pav nws coj kev txawj ntse. Lub ntiaj teb no tsuas tos thiab saib seb nws qhov project tom ntej no yuav.