ifashoni
André Leon Talley
1948-2022
Amagama nge: usharon edelson
André Leon Talley, Intatheli yefashoni enkulu kunobomi esebenze indlela yayo ezintliziyweni zabayili bentsimbi engenakubalwa kunye namagqala eshishini angaxutywanga - usweleke ngoLwesibini eWhite Plains., N.Y.. Ebe 73 iminyaka ubudala. UTalley waqala umsebenzi wakhe weminyaka engama-40 xa wayejoyina iMagazini yodliwanondlebe ka-Andy Warhol. 1975. Waqhubeka nokujoyina iVogue 1983 kwaye uphakanyiselwe kumlawuli wobuchule kwi 1988.
"Andizange ndiyiqonde ukuza kuthi ga ngoku ukuba u-André wayenobukho obungakanani entliziyweni yam," utshilo uDiane Von Furstenberg. "UAndré wayeyimboni, igcisa kunye nomthandi wobomi. Ngoyena mntu umhle ndadibana naye, oyena mhlobo unyanisekileyo nowayenqula ubuhle ngayo yonke indlela. Besisazana kuwo onke amanqanaba obomi bethu abadala kwaye sakhula kunye. Sasingqongqo kwaye sinyanzelisa omnye komnye kodwa sasisoloko sisazi ukuba sinokuthembana xa kuyimfuneko. Namhlanje ndiyaqonda ukuba akasekho kwaye kukho isithuba esikhulu esingaphakathi kum."
"Ndimazi ixesha elide kunabantu abaninzi," uthe intatheli yefashoni kunye nombhali wencwadi uTeri Agins. "Ndadibana noAndré ngaphakathi 1977. Ndandisandula ukuphumelela kwisikolo sobuntatheli. Wayengumhleli waseYurophu kwiWWD, kwaye ndandikwi-bureau yaseChicago. Ndikhumbula ndimbona okokuqala, kwaye ndikhumbula ndixelela abantu ukuba wayeyingqondi yokwenene. Ukufunda kwakhona [i] amabali, zazingavakali kamnandi njengoko zazisenza ngelo xesha.
"Wayengene nzulu kwinkcubeko yefashoni kwaye waphuma nawo onke la mabali eSaint Laurent, njl. U-André wayeneakhawunti enkulu yeendleko kodwa ndicinga ukuba bamnike imali eninzi yokubhatala," Wathi uAgins. "Babengenabani ongomnye wowenza loo mabali. Ubusazi ukuba uza kufumana ibali elizalisekileyo kuye."
UTalley wakhuliswa ngumakhulu wakhe eDurham, North Carolina, indawo engenakwenzeka ukuba umntu oyithanda kakhulu ifashoni akhule. Wayengomnye wabahleli abambalwa abaMnyama kwi-lily-white masthead yeVogue, apho wayesisandla sasekunene kunye nemfihlo ye-mercurial ngoko-Vogue umhleli-oyintloko u-Anna Wintour. Kwinkumbulo yakhe, i "Imijelo yeChiffon," watyhila iinkcukacha zobudlelwane babo, ukubhala ukuba nangona ubudlelwane babo bube bunzima kwiminyaka kamva, Incwadi yayiyinto ye "ileta yothando" kwi Wintour.
Ukumkanikazi wedrama, ukuba bekukho omnye, UTalley wayenomdla 6 iinyawo 6 i-intshi ubude kwaye yayingencinci, ngakumbi kwiminyaka yakhe kamva xa wayephuhlisa imiba yezempilo. "Wayenempilo enkenenkene, njengoko abantu abaninzi besazi," watsho uAgins. "Wanxiba ezo ngubo kuba wayeyindoda enzima kakhulu. Ungaya kumboniso wefashoni, kwaye wayehamba ngesitulo esinamavili, ndiye ndambona egalela amaplanga emotweni emva koko, kwaye yayisoloko iyiSUV."
Unxibe imiwunduzo emhlophe yolawulo xa uncokola noWhoopie Goldberg kwiMyuziyam yeMetropolitan ye-Art's Costume Ball e. 2010, UTalley wabonakala njengombingeleli omkhulu, ehleli ngaphaya komdlali weqonga, ngomfanekiso oqingqiweyo wamaGrike okanye wamaRoma enxibe ingubo ejonge phantsi phezu kwakhe.
Agins, owadibana noTalley ngaphambili "ebenxibe zonke ezo caps," wathi wayesoloko e "isinxibo esizigcinayo kakhulu kodwa sihlala sinaloo mpatho. Ebemkhulu kakhulu. Ndikhumbula ndisiya kwiofisi eseNew York ndize ndicinge, 'NguAndré ke lowo.' Wayenobubele kakhulu kum kwaye xa wayeseParis kwaye ndandisebenza kwincwadi yam. Ndiye ndachitha ixesha kunye naye. Wayehlala eRitz. Wayenendawo yokuhlala eParis Ritz, kwaye uKarl Lagerfeld wayeyihlawulela. Ndiyazi kuba wandixelela."
Kwihotele yaseRitz, UTalley wayemane eqhwakraza iminwe yakhe aze acele itshekhi, "Ngokukhawuleza, ngokukhawuleza, ngokukhawuleza. Zonke ezo mpahla wayenazo. UMiuccia Prada wamenzela le dyasi ebomvu yengwenya. Wayengumntu omkhulu ke ngoko yayifuna ingwenya eninzi. Wayenaso nesi simafu simangalisayo awayesoloko esiphatha ngalo lonke ixesha. Ndimkhumbula njengentatheli kwaye ndicinga ukuba wayeyintatheli elungileyo. U-André naye wayengumntu oqaqadekileyo kwaye yayiyinxalenye yemfihlakalo yefashoni."
Talley, ababengenabantwana, waxhasa abaqulunqi abancinci kwaye wacinga ngabo njengabantwana bakhe, ukubakhulisa. "Ucinga ngo-André njengoMnu. Saville Row, kodwa waxhasa uPuffy noSean John.
Waya kwiKholeji ye-Savannah yoBugcisa kunye noYilo xa uPaula Wallace, umseki, kunye nomongameli we-SCAD, wamenza umphathiswa. Ubize ibhaso lempumelelo yobomi bonke emva kwakhe, kwaye ngequbuliso u-André akazange abotshelelwe ku-Anna Wintour," Wathi uAgins. "Ndamcela ukuba andifumanele isimemo. Bendifuna ukuyibona le nto ikufutshane. Abafundi bamoyika kakhulu."
Umlinganiselo wokutsalwa kwakhe yayiliqela labayili be-A ababeye e-Savannah ukuya kuxhasa uTalley kwaye bambone efumana iwonga.. U-Agins uthe uVera Wang, Oscar de la Renta, Marc Jacobs, waza uTom Ford wenza uhambo. "UJohn Galliano wayefanele ukuza. Bayenzela uAndré. Abafundi babemthanda. Yayilixesha elimnandi kakhulu kuye kuba wafumana ukukhulisa abantu abatsha, kwaye ngenene wenjenjalo." Ngasekupheleni kobomi bakhe kunye nomsebenzi wakhe, wayesebenza noLaQuan Smith, umyili oselula omnyama owamlwelayo.
"Iyamangalisa. Unokukuxelela ngento awayeyinxibile uMarie Antoinette kwaye wayewazi onke amagama esiFrentshi ngolo hlobo lwesivakalisi esichaphazelekayo. Ndiyibiza ngokuba yintetho ka-André."