Umsiko
Balenciaga iqoka iPierpaolo Piccioli
Ukuqokwa kweBalenciaga kaPierpaolo Piccioli kuyinto okufanele ubuke
Ngokuthwala kwe-teneshia, Umhleli-in-strof
n imboni ejikeleza abaqondisi bokudala njengezitayela zesizini, Ukuma imfashini emikhondweni yayo kuthatha okuthile okungavamile nokubusayo. Ukuqokwa kukaPierpaolo Piccioli njengoba umqondisi omusha wobuciko beBalenciaga enza lokho nje.
Leli akuyona nje ifa noma ama-aesthetics. Kumayelana nethuba leBalenciaga futhi kungenzeka Ngemfashini uqobo ukuze iphinde iphinde.
Piccioli, Okokuqala nokubaluleke kakhulu, Umuntu ongumuntu. I-tenure yakhe eValentino iphinde yachaza kabusha ama-romanticism wanamuhla, Ukuyibeka hhayi ekuxineni kodwa ngamandla, ekubuzeleni, Ngobuntu. Lapho ethumele amamodeli amnyama phansi komgwaqo ogcwele eCouture afros, Lapho ephonsa abantu bangempela emikhankasweni yezikhangiso ezazizwa njengokufakwa kobuciko, futhi lapho enesibindi sokugubha ukuthamba njengamandla, Wayengeyena umpendela. Wakha ulimi olusha. Nemfashini, Kanye kanye, lalela.
Manje, Ungena endlini esekude ekhule ukucasulwa. U-Balenciaga ka-Demna wayebhekene nengxabano, ukuziqaphela, futhi ngenhloso. Ezikhathini zalo eziphoqelekile kakhulu, yenze njengesibuko, ukuphoqa imboni ukubheka kwayo yami ngokweqile, Ukuqagela kwayo nge-irony kanye nokuhlanekezela kwedijithali. Kepha leso sibuko sagcina saba yi-maze. Ngemuva kwempikiswano nokudideka, Balenciaga uzithole edinga usizo lwe hhayi okusha nje iphimbo, kodwa okusha isilulumagama.
Faka i-Piccioli. Hhayi ukusabela, Kepha i-renterpreter. Umqambi okholelwa ukuthi imfashini inalo umuphefumulo.
Umbuzo engqondweni yawo wonke umuntu: Ingabe umklami owaziwa ngeVelvet Poetry kanye nobuhle obuhle bachuma ngaphakathi kwe-brand eyakhelwe ku-dystopia kanye onqenqemeni? Ngiyacabanga le khasi Umbuzo ongcono uwukuthi: Kwenzekani lapho uzwela olunamandla luhlangana nokwakhiwa okujwayelekile?
UBalenciaga ubelokhu ephathelene nesakhiwo, Amavolumu kaCristóbal, I-Nicolas Ghsquière ikusasa, Deman's ukungezwani komqondo. I-Piccioli ihlele futhi, Kepha kuye kwafika umoya. Ngemizwelo. Ngombono ongafuni ukuthi izilaleli zishaqekile, kodwa kubonwe.
Ngiyakukholwa lokhu yiphi izidingo zemfashini manje: Hhayi okunye ukusebenza kepha okubalwa ngobuhle, hhayi enye i-stunt yedijithali kepha ubuyela ebuciko, na- kungenzeka, kakhulu, ukubuyela encazelweni.
Iminyaka, Imfashini ibikhathazekile nge "Ukuhamba ngegciwane." UPiccioli wenza izingubo ezihamba -julile.
Njengomuntu ochithe iminyaka eyishumi edlule etshela imfashini yezindaba evame ukweqa abaklami abamnyama, Izindatshana Ze-Quemer, ukunyakaza okuqala kuma-margins, Nginentshisekelo kulokho umzuzu ongenzanga. Uma i-piccioli iletha iso lakhe elihlanganisiwe, Isikondlo, kanye nomoya wokubambisana ku-Balenciaga, Singabona ukushintshwa kuliphi amandla okubukeka ku-runway. Ukuthambisa kombukiso. Ukuhanjiswa kwesimo. Ukukhiqizwa kokunethezeka okukhuluma ngakho.
Ngoba lokho pierpaolo okufanekisela ukungabi nalo dostalgia, kungenzeka.
I-Balenciaga ayidingi ukuqinisekiswa. Kudinga ukuxhumeka kabusha.
Uma i-piccioli ingadala umsebenzi osola kabusha e-GRACE, ukwenza kahle, nobuhle ngenhloso, khona-ke le nkathi elandelayo yeBalenciaga kungenzeka ingabi yizwi elikhulu kakhulu, Kepha kungenzeka kube okubaluleke kakhulu.
Futhi uma imfashini ikhona, Njengoba ngikholwa, Ukubonakaliswa kokuthi singobani nokuthi sinethemba lokuba ngubani, Ngemuva kwalokho manje yisikhathi esifanele sokuthi iPierpaolo Piccioli iye phambili.
Asidingi nje izingubo ezintsha. Sidinga umongo omusha. Sidinga isibindi esisha. Sidinga imfashini ezwakala futhi.
