CALCATERRA

Calcaterra

words by Kate Ambrose

Photos provided by CALCATERRA

Fashioning “real” clothes that carry an awe-inspiring sense of grace, and sophistication and that speak with quiet strength are qualities that embody Daniele Calcaterra’s creations. Labeled as a visual poet, the designer’s architecturally structured yet elegant garments center around a meticulous study of form and silhouette. Whether masculine or feminine, his aesthetics arrive with an absolute understanding of simplicity, originality, and refinement. He has one task: for women who wear his clothes to look beautiful, sensual, and, notably, with a strong sense of character. Mission accomplished.

Born in Milan in 1973, the designer trained between Milan and the Dudovich Institute as a way to enter the fashion industry. After graduation, Calcaterra designed men’s and women’s collections in partnership with various Italian clothing manufacturers. This ethos still resonates with how his brand operates today, working alongside these leading production companies to guarantee quality in manufacturing, embracing the élite of “Made in Italy.”

“I try to combine my vision of sensuality, design, and modernity while keeping an eye on the evolution of aesthetic codes – never forgetting the importance of quality.”

Becoming a designer has always been Calcaterra’s desire since he was a child. He remembers admiring his grandmother’s silk-cotton knitted swimwear and a large raffia hat adorned with floating marabou feathers whilst on vacation at the seaside in Tuscany. “My grandmother was a very sophisticated and elegant woman,” he explains. “Even in her later years, she maintained this attitude. Having seen some old pictures of her youth, I realized she had always embodied this elegance. She has been such an inspiration to me.” It was at that moment that Calcaterra understood that his ultimate objective was to create pieces that allow every woman to express that same manner: stylish and modern.

“I bring dreams – and at the same time, something real” he explains. “Many designers seem to have forgotten that our job is to bring beauty, dreams, and charm into the world. And we can’t do that by tricking our final consumer.” Calcaterra does not believe it’s right to ask people to pay $2,000 for a polyester shirt just because it has a designer’s name on it. He creates pieces meant to last beyond a single season.

“Because it’s not just a matter of clothes, it’s a matter of dreams – and if there are no dreams, you can’t call it fashion.”

The designer unveiled his studio in 2006 and was later appointed creative director of Piazza Sempione (2009–2012) throughout its LVMH possession, where he directed the artistic concept for the American market. 2014 saw the visionary establish his namesake brand, whilst, in the same year, Calcaterra debuted at Milan Fashion Week, showcasing an aesthetic of refinement grounded in Italian artistry.

It is the same authentic heritage and fine dexterity that personify the designer’s latest spring 2025 collection: Earth, Wind, and Fire, where movement and volume were captured, inspired by the four elements, collectively enveloped in fine Italian craftsmanship. Voluminous shapes, striking monochrome hues, and unfussy adornments displayed Calcaterra’s signature styles. A connection with nature proved apparent as textures included grains of sand, tree bark, and the lusciousness of a desert oasis. Colors appeared neutral and natural, whilst silhouettes were free and easy to move in.

Given the abundance of remarkable pieces, selecting a single standout design proved to be challenging. A dark red fringed dress layered over little shorts caught the gaze of show-goers, along with trousers that swept the ground, beautiful oversized coats, safari-feel suits, and long, boxy jackets and coats.

So what makes Calcaterra distinctive in today’s industry? “I follow my vision” he declares. “I’m not interested in following trends that sometimes last only as long as a wave breaking on the shore.” Calcaterra recognizes refined minimalism and silhouettes that are timeless, along with modernity, sophistication, and quality being at its forefront. “My pieces are not made for a single moment—they’re meant to be kept in the wardrobe and worn for years.”

The designer is not here to create fireworks. His vision is about fabrics, quality, and how to work with them. Calcaterra believes it is about the ability to feel what a fabric communicates to the creative process, and how to use different materials to create distinct shapes. He has a deep sensitivity for volumes and avant-gardism.

Let’s talk about inspiration. “It comes from everywhere beauty exists” the Italian declares. For example, he explains how one collection was inspired by the colors of ornamental chicken eggs—true magic from nature. Another was by the changing colors of the moon through its phases. Yet another came from the texture of a concrete building developing after years of harsh weather. “What matters most is being able to find beauty in simple things. Simplicity is a must. Beauty is essential.”

Above all, Calcaterra believes the most important thing, each morning when you wake up, is to follow your way – wherever it may lead. “It must be your way, not someone else’s. Honestly, the best compliment I’ve ever received is from those who’ve followed my work and told me that I’ve stayed true to my vision, regardless of what others are doing.” When asked about Calcaterra’s standout industry moment throughout his powerfully minimalistic and ethical fashion philosophy – “It is still to come.”