I-calcaterra

I-calcaterra

Amagama nguKate Ambrose

Iifoto ezibonelelwe yiCalcatera

Ifashoni “okwenyani” iimpahla eziphethe imvakalelo eyoyikisayo yobabalo, kunye nokuncitshiswa, kwaye loo nto ithetha ngamandla azolileyo ziimpawu ezizodwa ze-callecle calcatera. Ibhalwe njengembongi ebonakalayo, I-Decestor yezambatho ezihle zoyilo ezihle kakhulu ezijikeleze ukufundwa kwefom kunye ne-silhouette. Nokuba ngaba ubudoda okanye ubufazi, I-Aesthetics yakhe ifika ngokulula ngokupheleleyo, Imvelaphi, kunye nokuhlaziywa. Unomsebenzi omnye: Kubafazi abanxiba iimpahla zakhe bajongeka bemhle, imvakalelo, kwaye, Ngokukodwa, Ngombono onamandla. Umsebenzi ufezekisiwe.

Uzalelwe eMilan kwi 1973, Umyili oqeqeshiweyo phakathi kukaMilan kunye ne-Dudovich Institute njengeyona ndlela yokufaka ishishini lefashoni. Emva kokuphumelela, I-Calcaterra iyile ingqokelela yendoda kunye nebhinqa yabasetyhini ngokubambisana nabavelisi beempahla ezahlukeneyo ze-Itali. Le mitha isaqhubeka nendlela osebenza ngayo uphawu lwayo namhlanje, Ukusebenza kunye nezi nkampani zemveliso ezikhokelayo ukuba kuqinisekiswe umgangatho kwimveliso, ukwamkela i-élite ye “Yenziwe e-Itali.”

“Ndizama ukudibanisa umbono wam wokuziva, uyilo, kunye nohlobo lwabantu ngelixa begcina iliso kwindaleko ngeekhowudi zobuhle - Ungaze ulibale ukubaluleka komgangatho.”

Ukuba ngumyili bekusoloko kungumnqweno weCallecaterra ukusukela ukuba wayengumntwana. Uyakhumbula ukuba uthanda isilika yesilika kunye ne-qutton enqunqwayo kunye ne-raffili enkulu ye-raffia ehonjiswe iintsiba ze-marabou ezidadayo kwiholide kwiTuscany. “Umakhulu wam wayengumfazi onobunkunkqele kakhulu kwaye othandekayo,” uyacacisa. “Kwanakwiminyaka yakhe kamva, Ugcine esi simo sengqondo. Ukubona eminye imifanekiso yobutsha bayo, Ndiye ndaqonda ukuba wayesoloko ebeka le meko. Uye wandikhuthaza.” Kwakukwelo mzuzu ukuba uCalcatera aqonde ukuba eyona njongo yakhe yayikukudala iziqwenga ezivumela wonke umfazi ukuba avakalise loo ndlela efanayo: Isitayile kwaye sanamhlanje.

“Ndizisa amaphupha- kwaye ngaxeshanye, into yokwenene” uyacacisa. “Abalimi abaninzi babonakala ngathi balibale ukuba umsebenzi wethu kukuzisa ubuhle, amaphupha, kunye nomtsalane kwihlabathi. Kwaye asinakukwenza oko ngokuthi sikuthathele ingqalelo umthengi wethu wokugqibela.” I-Calcaterra ayikholelwa ukuba ilungile ukuba icele abantu ukuba bahlawule $2,000 Kwihempe ye-polyester kuba inegama lomyili kulo. Udala iziqwenga zenzelwe ukuhlala ungaphaya kwexesha elinye.

“Kuba ayisiyonto nje yempahla, Ngumbandela wamaphupha - kwaye ukuba akukho maphupha, Awungekhe uyibize ifashoni.”

Umyili watyhila isitudiyo sakhe 2006 kwaye kamva wamiselwa umlawuli wokuyilwa kwePiazza Semione (2009-2012) Kuyo yonke ilungelo layo le-lvmh, Apho walathisa ingcinga yobugcisa kwintengiso yaseMelika. 2014 wabona umbono wamisela uphawu lwegama lakhe, Ngelixa, Kwangonyaka omnye, I-Calcaterra ityhilwe kwiVeki yeFashion yeMilan, Ukubonisa ubuhle bokuphuculwa okukhoyo kwi-Italiary.

Ilifa lelifa lemveli eliyinyani kunye ne-dexterity entle eyaziseza intwasahlobo yakutshanje 2025 ingqokelela: Umhlaba, Umoya, kunye nomlilo, apho intshukumo kunye nevolumu ibanjiwe, iphefumlelwe ngezinto ezine, igubungele ngokudibeneyo kwi-Crafsm yase-Italiya. Iimilo ezinyanzelekileyo, Ukubetha ii-hies ze-monochrome, kunye nezixhobo ezingafunekiyo ziboniswe izitayile ze-calcatera. Unxibelelwano nendalo lubonakale lubonakale njengokuthengiswa kwe-sand yesanti, Inkanuko yomthi, kwaye ukubalazeli yenkqantosi yentlango. Imibala ivele ingaba nokungathathi hlangothi kwaye kwendalo, Ngelixa i-silhouettes yayikhululekile kwaye kulula ukuyifumana.

Inikezwe intabalala yamaqhekeza amangalisayo, Ukukhetha uyilo olunye olubalulekileyo lubonakalise ukuba lucelomngeni. Ingubo ebomvu ebomvu ebomvu enamachaphaza amancinci amancinci abamba i-goze ye-god-gods, kunye nebhulukhwe ehlise umhlaba, Iingubo ezintle ezingaphezulu, I-Safari-iva iisuti, kwaye ixesha elide, Iijekethi zebhokisi kunye neengubo.

Ke yintoni eyenza i-calcaterra eyahlukileyo kwishishini lanamhlanje? “Ndilandela umbono wam” Utsho. “Andinamdla kwiindlela ezilandelayo eziqhubekayo ngamanye amaxesha zihlala kuphela njengendawo yokuqhekeza elunxwemeni.” I-Calcaterra yamkela umlinganiso ocociweyo kunye ne-silhouette engapheliyo, Ndikunye nabantu, I-COPHIRINGER, kunye nomgangatho wokuba ngumphambili wangaphambili. “Iziqwenga zam azenziwanga mzuzu omnye - zenzelwe ukuba zigcinwe kwiwadi kwaye zinxibe iminyaka.”

Umyili akakho apha ukwenza izixhobo zomlilo. Umbono wakhe malunga neendwangu, Umgangatho, kwaye usebenza njani nabo. I-Calcaterra ikholelwa ukuba imalunga nokukwazi ukuva ukuba ithini ilaphu enxibelelana ngenkqubo yokuyila, kunye nendlela yokusebenzisa izixhobo ezahlukeneyo ukwenza iimilo ezahlukileyo. Unobuntu onobude obunzulu kwimiqulu kunye ne-Avar-Gardism.

Masithethe malunga nokukhuthaza. “Ivela kuyo yonke indawo ikhoyo” I-Italian ichaza. Umzekelo, Ucacisa indlela enye ingqokelela ephefumlelwe ngayo yimibala yenkukhu ehonjisiweyo yenkukhu - umlingo oyinyani kwindalo. Enye yayiyimibala eguqukayo yenyanga ngezigaba zayo. Enye into yayivela kumgaqo wezakhiwo zekhonkrithi ezikhulayo emva kweminyaka yemozulu embi. “Eyona nto ibaluleke kakhulu kukukwazi ukufumana ubuhle kwizinto ezilula. Ukulula yinto ekufuneka. Ubuhle bubalulekile.”

Ngaphezu koko, I-Calcaterra ikholelwa eyona nto ibalulekileyo, ntsasa nganye xa uvuka, kukulandela indlela yakho - naphi na apho ikhoyo. “Imele ukuba yindlela yakho, hayi omnye umntu. Ngokunyaniseka, Esona sincomo silungileyo sezinto endikhe ndazifumana sivela kwabo balandela umsebenzi wam bandixelela ukuba ndihlale ndinyanisekile kumbono wam, Nokuba bayenza ntoni na abanye.” Xa ubuzwa malunga ne-Calcaterra yeShishini lokuZamba kweShishini kulo lonke ixesha lokuziphatha kunye nefilosofi yefashoni yaseburhulumenteni - “Iseza.”