I-calcaterra

I-calcaterra

Amagama kaKate Ambrose

Izithombe ezinikezwe yiCalcaterra

Imvelo “-liqiniso” izingubo ezithwala umuzwa womusa owesabekayo, kanye nokuzikhandla futhi okukhuluma ngamandla athule kuyizimfanelo eziqukethe indalo kaDaniel calcaterra. Ibhalwe njengembongi ebonakalayo, Umenzi wezembatho ohleliwe ohlelwe ngokwemiklami nokho nokho ezungeze ukutadisha ngokucophelela kwefomu ne-silhouette. Noma ngabe ososizini noma ngowesifazane, Ama-aesthetics akhe afika ngokuqonda okuphelele kokulula, isiminyathelisi, nokuhlaziywa kabusha. Unomsebenzi owodwa: kwabesifazane abagqoka izingubo zakhe ukuze babukeke bemuhle, -kwenyama, na-, ngokusobala, ngomqondo oqinile womlingiswa. Inhloso ifeziwe.

Uzalelwe eMilan in 1973, Umklami waqeqeshwa phakathi kweMilan neDudovich Institute njengendlela yokungena embonini yezemfashini. Ngemuva kokuthweswa iziqu, I-calcaterra yakhelwe amaqoqo amadoda kanye nabesifazane ngokubambisana nabakhiqizi abahlukahlukene base-Italy. Lokhu ethos kusalokhu kusebenza nokuthi umkhiqizo wakhe usebenza kanjani namhlanje, Ukusebenza eceleni kwalezi zinkampani ezihola phambili zokukhiqiza ukuqinisekisa ikhwalithi ekwakheni, wamukisa i-élite ye “Yenziwe e-Italy.”

“Ngizama ukuhlanganisa umbono wami wokuzwa, ukusongoza icebo, kanye nangokwebusuku ngenkathi kugcina iso lokuvela kwamakhodi wobuhle - ungalokothi ukhohlwe ukubaluleka kwekhwalithi.”

Ukuba ngumklami bekulokhu kuyisifiso sikaCapcaterra selokhu esengumntwana. Ukhumbula ukuncoma ukothamvu okotini kamkhulu wakhe ohlanganisiwe kanye nesigqoko esikhulu se-raffia esihlotshiswe ngezimpaphe ze-marabou ngenkathi useholidini olwandle eTuscany. “Ugogo wami wayengowesifazane oyinkimbinkimbi kakhulu futhi omuhle kakhulu,” Uyachaza. “Ngisho eminyakeni yakhe yakamuva, Ugcine lesi simo sengqondo. Ukubona izithombe ezithile ezindala zobusha bakhe, Ngabona ukuthi wayehlale ehlanganisa lobu buhle. Ubelokhu ugqozi okunjalo kimi.” Kwakunjalo ngaleso sikhathi lapho i-calcaterra yaqonda ukuthi inhloso yakhe yokugcina kwakuwukudala izingcezu ezivumela wonke umuntu wesifazane ukuba abonise leyo ndlela efanayo: isitayela nesimanje.

“Ngiletha amaphupho - futhi ngasikhathi sinye, okuthile kwangempela” Uyachaza. “Abaqambi abaningi babonakala sengathi bakhohliwe ukuthi umsebenzi wethu ukuletha ubuhle, amaphupho, futhi i-charm emhlabeni. Futhi asikwazi ukwenza lokho ngokukhohlisa umthengi wethu wokugcina.” I-calcaterra ayikholelwa ukuthi ilungile ukucela abantu ukuthi bakhokhe $2,000 ye-polyester shirt ngoba enegama lomklami kuyo. Udala izingcezu ezenzelwe ukuqhubeka ngaphezu kwesizini eyodwa.

“Ngoba akuyona nje into yezingubo, Kuyindaba yamaphupho - futhi uma kungekho amaphupho, Awukwazi ukuyibiza ngemfashini.”

Umklami wembula isitudiyo sakhe ngaphakathi 2006 futhi kamuva waqokwa umqondisi wokudala wePiazza Sempione (2009-2012) kulo lonke i-lvmh impahla, lapho aqondisa khona umqondo wobuciko emakethe yaseMelika. 2014 wabona umbono osungula umkhiqizo wakhe wamagama, kukodwa, ngonyaka ofanayo, I-calcaterra yalimala ngesonto le-milan fashion, Ukubonisa ubuhle bokunconywa okusekelwe kubuciko base-Italy.

Iyifa elifanayo langempela ne-dexterity enhle eyenza intwasahlobo yakamuva yomklami 2025 izinto ezibuthelwe ndawonye: Inhlabathi, Songa, nomlilo, lapho ukunyakaza kanye nevolumu kuthathwe, liphefumulelwe yizinto ezine, bembozwe ngobuciko obuhle be-Italian. Bobunjwa abavumayo, I-Monochrome Hes, Futhi izihlokwana ezingaphenduki zibonise izitayela ze-callaterra's Signature. Ukuxhumana nemvelo kufakazelwe okusobala njengoba ukwakheka kufaka phakathi okusanhlamvu kwesihlabathi, umphetho wesihlahla, kanye nokukhanya kwe-oasis ehlane. Imibala ivele ingathathi hlangothi futhi yemvelo, Ngenkathi ama-silhouette akhululekile futhi kulula ukungena ngaphakathi.

Njengoba kunikezwe ubuningi bezingcezu eziphawuleka, Ukukhetha ukwakheka okukodwa okukodwa kufakazelwe ukuthi kuyinselele. Ingubo ebomvu emnyama ethosiwe ehlelwe ngaphezulu kwezifushane ezinama-gaze ama-show-goers, kanye namabhulukwe akhukhuleka emhlabathini, amajazi amahle ngokweqile, I-Safari-Zizwe Amasudi, futhi isikhathi eside, amajakethi ebhokisi namajazi.

Ngakho-ke yini eyenza i-calcaterra ehlukile embonini yanamuhla? “Ngilandela umbono wami” uyamemezela. “Anginankinga nokulandela izindlela zokugcina ngokuhlala isikhathi eside kuphela uma nje kuphuka amagagasi ogwini.” I-calcaterra ibona ama-minimalism acwengekile kanye nama-silhouette angaphelelwa isikhathi, kanye nesimanje, ukuthuthuka, kanye nekhwalithi yokuba phambili. “Izicucu zami azenzelwe umzuzwana owodwa - zenzelwe ukugcinwa ekhabethe futhi zigqokwa iminyaka.”

Umqambi awukho lapha ukudala izicishamlilo. Umbono wakhe uphathelene nezindwangu, isimo, nokuthi ungasebenza kanjani nabo. ICalcaterra ikholelwa ukuthi imayelana nokukwazi ukuzwa ukuthi yini indwangu ekhuluma ngenqubo yokudala, nokuthi ungazisebenzisa kanjani izinto ezahlukene ukudala ukwakheka okuhlukile. Unokuzwela okujulile kumavolumu kanye nokuvuselelwa kwe-avant-gardism.

Ake sixoxe ngokuphefumlelwa. “Kuvela kuyo yonke indawo ubuhle” I-Italian imemezela. Ngokwesibonelo, Uchaza ukuthi iqoqo elilodwa eliphefumulelwe kanjani ngemibala yamaqanda enkukhu yomhlobiso - umlingo weqiniso kusuka emvelweni. Enye yayinemibala eguqukayo yenyanga ngezigaba zayo. Futhi okunye kwaqhamuka ekutholweni kwesakhiwo ekhonkolo esathuthukisa ngemuva kweminyaka yesimo sezulu esibi. “Okubalulekile kakhulu ukuthola ubuhle ezintweni ezilula. Ukulula kungukuthi kumele. Ubuhle bubalulekile.”

Ngaphezu kwakho konke, I-calcaterra ikholelwa into ebaluleke kakhulu, njalo ekuseni lapho uvuka, ukulandela indlela yakho - nomaphi lapho kungaholela khona. “Kufanele kube yindlela yakho, hhayi omunye umuntu. Ngokweqiniso, Ukuncoma okuhle kakhulu engake ngakuthola kulabo abawulandele umsebenzi wami futhi bangitshela ukuthi ngihlale ngithembekile embonweni wami, Kungakhathalekile ukuthi abanye bakwenzani.” Lapho ebuzwa ngomkhakha wokuma e-callaterra wokuma kwe-callaterra kuyo yonke ifilosofi yakhe yemfashini enamandla futhi enokuziphatha - “Kusazofika.”