Umsiko
Khempa: Amanothi ngemfashini
Intwasahlobo yezindleko 2019 Umbukiso eMetropolitan Museum of Art
Amagama nguHana Rose prergast
Intwasahlobo yaseGala yahlangana 2019 umbukiso, Khempa: Amanothi ngemfashini, kuhlola isimo senkambo ekhempu ekamu elisesimweni salo semali ebekelwe yonke indlela eya ethonyeni lawo esikweni lesimanje se-pop. Ukusiza ukuqondisa ukuqondisa kwengqikithi yalo nyaka ngamagama abhalwe ngumlobi we-Susan Sontag kuye 1964 Amanothi e-Essay ekamu. '
Ukuzama ukufaka i-Pin Down Askhol AKUKHO lula - kuvuleka ukutakula futhi kuvame ukubonwa ngokungenakuqhathaniswa nencazelo yemfashini. Njengoba i-curator Andrew Bolton ikubeka "imfashini yiyona ndlela eyeqisayo futhi ebekezela indlela enhle yeCamp Aesthetic." Ekhona ngezindlela eziningi zezinkulumo zobuciko zokuzwa ulayini phakathi kobuciko besimanje nobukhulu, Ikamu lizwakalisa lisebenzisa "ukungasebenzi, injabulo, ithukutha, incwajana, ubuthi, I-Theatricality, nohaba. "
Kuthathwe ethemu laseFrance "se camper,"Ikamu laqala ukuvela ngawo-1600s lapho kube khona" umuzwa wobuciko obumangalisayo, Okwasemva, kanye nokuvumelanisa. " Ngesikhathi se-Victorian Era, Ikamu liqhamuke njenge-stereotype ye- "efteminate aristocrat" -One lelo phoyisa linikezelwe ku-Oscar Wilde. Kuyathakazelisa ngokwanele, nakuba, Umsebenzi wakhe wamasosha wawubukela phansi umphimbo okamu, ikakhulukazi njengomkhuba wokusayina. "Umuntu uzizwa sengathi uma ongqingili bebengenalo noma ngaphansi kwekamu, omunye umuntu ngabe,"U-Sontag ubhala. Ngemuva kokuba ubungqingili behlukaniswe eBrithani ngaphakathi 1967, Ikamu lakhula liya ngokuya lilwa futhi kude nesiko lesitabane. Namhlanje, Ikamu lifanelana nanoma yini "elenziwa kabi ngokungemthetho, -thintekile, ayilungile, noma isikhathi esiphelelwe ukubhekwa njengokuhlekisa. "
Umbukiso ukhombisa 250 izinto, kufaka phakathi i-womenswear, isivalo, ukuqoshwa, imidwebo, kanye nemidwebo kusukela ngekhulu le-17 kuze kube manje. Phakathi kwabaklami yi-Alexander McQueen, UChristian Dior, I-Cristobal Balenciaga, UJean Paul Gaultier, UJeremy Scott, UJohn Galliano, Marc Jacobs, UThom Browne, IViktor & I-Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, kanye noVirgil Abloh off-mhlophe. UGucci uphinde wafakwa ngokuvelele njengomxhasi weGala, okungukukhethwa okungaphezu kokufanele kwendlu enikelwe ekamu elinjengenye. I-Iconically ekhombisa leli phuzu lingumphumela we-polaring of 'flashtrek' sneakers wabo: uyabathanda, noma ubazonda noma njengoba kusho uSontag, "Kuhle ngoba kubi."
Kunoma yimuphi umongo, Ikamu alizithathi ngokweqile. Ngendilinga efanayo njenge-tomo koizumi gown, Imizamo yokuchaza ikamu, kukodwa, Khempa. Khempa: Amanothi ngemfashini kubukwa ku-met ngoMeyi 9 kuya ngoSepthemba 8, 2019.
