CHUKS COLLINS

Bayan Eden: Chuks Collins da Fasahar Zama

Kalmomi daga Tessa Shaw

Chuks Collins bai gabatar da kansa a matsayin mai zanen kaya ba. Ya kira kansa mai fasaha, wani wanda tufafinsa ɗaya ne kawai daga cikin harsuna da yawa. Wannan bambanci yana da mahimmanci. Ya bayyana dalilin da yasa lokacin bazara/ bazara 2026 tari, Eden Sake Tunani, yana jin ƙasa kamar hadaya ta yanayi kuma ya fi kama da bimbini: akan sake haifuwa, a kan tsira, a kan dogon, rashin daidaituwa aiki na zama kanku.

An haife shi a Coventry kuma ya girma tsakanin Ingila da Najeriya, Collins ya girma cikin motsi. “Rayuwata ta kasance sosai, daban-daban da kowa,” yace. “Zan yi shekara uku a Ingila, shekara uku a Najeriya… na tsane shi. Ba ni da abokai, domin dole ne a koyaushe in canza.” Akwai iyaye masu goyo a Ingila, kaka mai tsauri a Najeriya, da darasi na farko kan yadda gida zai iya zama rashin kwanciyar hankali.

Wannan baiwar Allah ce ta yi shiru ta canza yanayin rayuwarsa ta hanyar koya masa dinki. Da sha biyu, ya yi kararrakinsa na farko. Art ya zama duka tserewa da oxygen. “Art ko da yaushe ya kasance hanyar magana a gare ni, ko da a cikin hargitsin da na yi a lokacin yaro,” ya bayyana. Lokacin karayar iyali, tambayoyi na ainihi, kuma fushin samari ya yi yawa, ya fara zana, gina duniyoyi masu duhu, zane mai ban dariya sararin samaniya, madadin rayuwa inda zai iya sarrafa karshen.

M, fashion ba sana'a ba kowa a kusa da shi ya karfafa. “Ba sana'ar namiji ba ce mai daraja,” yace. Don haka ya yi gyara ta hanya mafi dacewa: digiri uku na digiri - lissafi da kudi, aikin zamantakewa, da fasaha mai kyau - lasisin matukin jirgi, kuma daga ƙarshe ya koma U.S. don makarantar fashion da kuma master's a cikin dangantakar kasa da kasa a Fordham, mai da hankali kan matasa da ci gaban tattalin arziki. Hanyar tana karantawa kamar rayuka da yawa da yawa, amma ga Collins, duk yana haɗi. Sabis, tsari, jirgi, kula, halitta; duk danyen abu ne na tufafi.

Lokacin da yake magana game da aikinsa yanzu, harshen yana kwance bam. Dashen koda ya kawo shi Amurka; wani dogon tsari na rikice-rikice na lafiya ya tsara yadda yake haifar da gaggawa. “Na shiga cikin abubuwan da ke kusa da mutuwa tare da lafiya,” yace. “Kusan zan yi shekaru hudu komai yana tafiya daidai, kuma shekaru biyu masu zuwa ina fada da wani abu. Kowane yanki na ƙirƙira kamar labari ne da nake ba da labarin yadda nake ji a wancan lokacin.”

Wannan ma'anar rayuwa da tambayar kai suna zaune a zuciyar Eden Sake Tunani, An bayyana shi a ƙarshen kakar wasa a Bryant Park Grill a New York. Collins ya sake yin aikin Adnin na Littafi Mai-Tsarki ba a matsayin hukunci ba amma a matsayin mahimmin batu — kafin-da-bayan lokacin sani.. Ilham daga nan take na farkawa, tarin ya karanta Eden “ba kamar gudun hijira ba, amma a matsayin farkon sani. Lokacin da ɗan adam ya zaɓi ya ga kansa sosai,” da sculptural tela, ruwa drapery, da palette wanda ke motsawa daga tsaka-tsaki mai laushi da sautunan ƙasa zuwa gaggarumar ganye da ja.

“A gare ni, Eeden Sake Tunani shine lokacin bayan farkawa, lokacin da muka fahimci hasken mu duka da sakamakonmu,” Collins ya ce. “Ina so in kama wannan tashin hankali, ƙarfin shiru wanda ke zuwa daga zabar sake ginawa maimakon ja da baya.” Magana ce da za ta iya ninka ta a matsayin taƙaitaccen tarihin rayuwarsa. Abubuwan da aka ɗorewa na tarin tarin da cikakkun bayanai da aka gama da hannu suna ba da sha'awar yin sahihanci. M, cajin motsin rai yana fitowa daga wani wuri mai zurfi, wanda shi ne ya ƙi yin romanticize zafi ba tare da kuma nace a kan canji.

Collins ya kwatanta tufafi kamar yadda “sulke da muke sawa… abu na farko da mutane ke gani a cikinmu.” Wannan firam ɗin yana ɗaukar takamaiman nauyi lokacin da kake Baƙar fata mai ƙira a cikin masana'antar da har yanzu ta gaza zuwa fari da namiji a saman.. “Kasancewa Bakar fata a cikin fashion, akwai stereotypes da yawa na abin da mutane ke son tsammani,” ya lura. “Alamar tawa gada ce tsakanin kayan Yamma da Afirka. Na girma a wurare biyu, kuma abubuwan da nake sanyawa a cikin tarin nawa ne saboda ni ne.”

New York ta inganta wannan hangen nesa. Lokacin da ya fara ƙaura zuwa birni, zai hau jirgin karkashin kasa daga wannan karshen layin zuwa wancan domin kallon yadda salo ya sauya daga gundumomi zuwa gundumomi.. Turanci tela, Kundin sassaka na Najeriya, Bronx swagger, ya shanye shi duka. “Ina kawo Turanci teiloring zuwa tufafina, Ina kawo launi daga Afirka zuwa zane na,” yace. “Ina tsammanin na shiga tsakanin layi mai kyau na ethereal da gine-gine… Kuna iya ganin yanki wanda ke da corsets a ciki, amma idan ya motsa, sai ka ga ruwa mai tsafta.” Idan harshen fasaha ya kasance game da yanke da ginawa, Harshen motsin rai shine game da kulawa. Collins’ aiki ya samo asali ne a cikin mata-wadanda suka rene shi, yi imani da shi, gidan shi, ya mika masa injin dinkinsa na farko, Ya sa kayansa na farko. “Na tsara wa yarinya a kowace mace da mace a kowace yarinya,” yace, “wanda ke burin zama jakada, likita, lauya, ko ma uwar gida.” Yana ganin kowace mace ta lenses guda uku: 'yar, 'yar'uwa, abokin tarayya. “Waɗannan su ne matan da nake hulɗa da su kowace rana. Ina kuma ganin mahaifiyata a cikinsu.”

A kan titin jirgi, wanda ke fassara zuwa simintin gyare-gyare wanda a natse ya ki amincewa da kunkuntar samfurin-girman fantasy: samfurin ciki, wata mata dauke da jaririnta, da-girma jiki raba sarari tare da girma biyu da hudu. “Kadan abin da za ku iya yi yana ba da gudummawa sosai,” yace. “Kada ku yi tunanin kadan ne.” Za Collins, bambancin ba kalmar yakin neman zabe ba; kari ne na godiya. “Mata sun tashe ni kawai,” a sauƙaƙe ya ​​ce. “Don haka ƙarfafa su da yin kyawawan tufafi ba kawai don girman biyu da hudu ba, amma ga ainihin matan da na taso na gani, yana da mahimmanci a gare ni.”

Alhaki na zamantakewa yana nunawa akan titin jirgin sama, kuma. Tare da aboki, shi ne ya kafa Majalisar Kayayyakin Afirka don haɓaka masu zanen Afirka akan dandamali na duniya, taimaka kawo 7 Alamar Afirka a kan kalandar makon Fashion na New York. A Legas, ya bude atelier da ke da alaƙa da ƙungiyar sa-kai da ke horar da waɗanda suka tsira daga tashin hankalin gida, girmamawa ga kansa tarihin mahaifiyarsa. Ana tsara tsari a New York, sannan aka tura Nigeria, Inda ƙungiyar masu sana'a masu girma ke aiwatar da wuraren shakatawa da kamannun bugu waɗanda ke jujjuya sarkar samar da alamar a gida..

Duk wannan, fadace-fadacen lafiya, motsin kasashen waje, shawara, tambaya ta ruhaniya, yana ciyarwa cikin ma'anarsa na salon a matsayin sabis. “Duk lokacin da zan iya hada wani abu tare, kawo wani abu a rayuwa, yana bani sosai,” yace. “Babban matakin farin ciki shine lokacin da wani ya saka shi… Lokacin da na gansu suna jin ƙarfi ta wurin halittata, ni'ima ce gareni. A karshen yini, kira na ne na zama hidima ga mutane.”

Kallon gaba, Collins yana tunani kamar yanayin muhalli, ba lakabi kawai ba. Bayan sake fasalin dabarun, manufofinsa a fili suke: don gina alamar wayar da kan jama'a da ma'auni tare da niyya. The Eden Sake Tunani tarin kaddamar da Eden Bag a apple fata, sigina mai zurfi tura cikin na'urorin haɗi. Akwai layin gida, amarya da jakunkuna a sararin sama, yana shirin zama na dindindin a New York bayan zama a Kwalejin Berkeley, sabunta kasancewar a Ingila, da kuma fadada samar da kayayyaki a Legas. Yana aiki tare da kayan ado don jerin masu zuwa, Haɓaka salon baje kolin kayan abinci na Pan-African, kuma a nitse yana tunanin komawa ga koyarwa. “Ban san shi duka ba,” yace. “Ni dalibi ne na rayuwa.”

A hannun Collins, Adnin ba aljanna bace amma farkon dawowa. Wuri ne da kuka fita tare da ƙarin ilimi, karin tabo, karin nauyi, da sabon nau'in alheri. Tufafin suna ɗaukar wannan labarin a hankali: riguna masu yankan ra'ayi masu motsi kamar numfashi, tela tare da kashin baya na gine-gine, sulke mai ji kamar taushi. An gina su don matan da suka rayu ta hanyar wani abu kuma har yanzu suna zabar fita, cikakke a farke, cikin duniya.