Words by Katie Farley
A fashion brand, who’s based in Paris, born in India and bred in Australia, ADYAR’s identity showcases the cultural roots that assisted it to develop into its present self. This ethos is actively being nurtured by the fashion houses designer and founder, Vaz Rajan, who ultimately believes in the importance of showcasing its sartorial characteristics through authentic and substantial roots. This significant message appears to be at the very heart of ADYAR’s overall conception.
Amid ADYAR’s variety of designs and silhouettes lies an apparent gamut of intentional emotions that are reminiscent, which ultimately, much like art, acquires a considerable amount of space to be left open to interpretation. The brand’s aesthetics reflect Vaz Rajan’s thoughts and feelings, additionally echoing his obsession with the vision of the future and the endless possibilities that have yet to be unveiled.
With the recent birth of ADYAR in 2016, the intention was to create a universe to distribute the upcoming designer’s inventive ideas that would adopt a difference from the usual format of an eponymous brand. A sense of honesty and sincerity transpire as fundamental components, therefore Rajan wanted to craft something that he felt was part of him, and made the decision to name his brand after his Indian birthplace. This name acts as a constant reminder of who he is and where his journey is taking him, which Rajan regards as very noteworthy, given his frequent desire to travel. ADYAR is a creative platform that is being shared with the world.
ADYAR purposes to bridge the gap between culture and fashion, with an essential focus on the future and the continuous evolution of our many civilizations and our clothing. Fashion follows culture, believes Rajan, who in his view, believes you cannot have one without the other. The brand is not one to conform with today’s culture of the empty “instant everything” philosophy that many fashion labels carry, which can seem rather ordinary and inexpressive; descriptive accounts that most certainly do not comply with the style subject in question.
“Phoenix” is ADYAR’s first collection that encompasses a focus on resilience, protection, recovery, and regeneration. These act as important elements to any beginning with fragile and delicate rudiments always acting as the initial sartorial steps. Forever commencing his works with a feeling, Vaz drew equivalents between his personal life and the world around him through a series of tactile textures. A juxtaposition of borrowed construction details from garments that resembled medical/therapeutic aids such as knee supports and shoulder braces with cut proof stretch Kevlar and couture silks resulted in an intriguing blend of references.
Desert tribeswomen and colonial-era Indian sepoys are subtly referenced through the colors and silhouettes, whilst the camouflage and industrial sections give a nod to the French paramilitary and tradesmen that Rajan frequently became acquainted with near his home in Paris. The references to layering are a subtle reflection of his central theme, a preferred technique as opposed to showcasing something that is loud and clear. Highly innovative and relentlessly modern in equal measures.