Words by Imogen Clark
ART SCHOOL kicked off London Fashion Week with their autumn winter collection created around the idea of going to the opera. Design duo Eden Loweth and Tom Barratt continue making garments that are as fluid as the body of people who wear them emphasizing their non-binary stance to fashion. Following on from their debut show, the pair have continued tailored jackets that either express a sculpted silhouette or a boxier shape, as well as introduced a new dagger dress that comes in either black silk or pink jacquard. The collection ranges from a gold safari suit to their continuing collaboration with Gina Shoes that have produced heels with bright pink feathers, and an alpaca merino wool gown.
James Long took us to the Italian Alps for Iceberg’s new collection. Focused around all aspects of the slopes, logo ski flag shapes were knitted together to create sweaters, puzzle-like graphics were printed on shirts and polo necks were kept warm with glossy parka coats. Graffiti logo was found on hoodies creating a punkier feel. A new surge of purple was embedded in velour tracksuits which were paired with ice hockey shaped shirts. Womenswear saw high slit dresses and relaxed trousers to ensure enough movement can be made to party it up at the après ski. Oversized cardigans and borrowed oversized shirts from the boys were matched with poplin skirts and ice colored logo polo necks. The collection mixed and matched from boys to girls but was consistent in electric color and logo mania.
Michiko Koshino explored the raving scene in her collection. Flashing lights and blaring music introduced an array of über masculine silhouettes that reference her iconic ‘Motor King’ collection from the 1980s that has been a pinpoint for many designers. This year she revisited her collection that has been an integral part of her brand’s aesthetics. The use of camouflage and leather hint at cross-country type masculinity within society. Though within this collection, sketches by Koshino create a more intimate side as she explores the artist inside. Strong silhouettes, fluorescent colors and experimental patterns hint at teenage rebellion, and though returning to the roots of her brand, this collection remains contemporary.
Christopher Raeburn celebrates his tenth anniversary this season. Proud of their decade constantly evolving and pushing themselves, the need for sustainability has been an ethos that has been held. With thoughts on the UN Climate Change reports and plastic waste, Raeburn wants to ensure good choices are being made behind the scenes and asking our community to think twice. Deadstock materials and waste fabrics found in office have been shaped into this seasons silhouettes. Safety jackets, parkas, and bombers serve as protection for the shirts and t-shirts made from air brake parachutes. Cashmere and recycled yarn make up the hand-made knitwear. The collaboration between Timberland and Christopher Raeburn continues, after Raeburn’s appointment as Creative Director of the outdoor lifestyle brand. The Weather breaker jacket is re-imagined using Raeburn- style materials and shoes are typical of Timberland.
Phoebe English joined the revolution this season by concentrating on being a part of the solution of fashion’s waste. Zero waste pattern cutting was ensured this season and UK based sourced materials. Buttons are made from excess milk proteins, undyed alpaca knits from an organic farm in Somerset and handmade jewelry crafted together from melted down silver scrap. Having missed the September slot to show her collection, she took time to understand her footprint in this industry of waste. She is working towards a solution. Loose fitting trousers and oversized jackets were seen, alongside tonal patchwork dresses with plastic-free buttons. A variation of blacks are incorporated in the collection from an accumulation of years of waste material.