A look at Burberry through the past, present, and future, aptly titled “Time” also happened to be the last collection with Christopher Bailey at the helm of the company. The Spring/Summer 2018 show was the celebration of an era; featuring reissued pieces from the 80’s and 90’s and archival prints from the 60’s and 70’s. Bailey covered a lot of ground we weren’t expecting including a smart, prideful nod to the knockoff craze. As for the closing look; there were stronger pieces but really, Cara Delevigne looks amazing in anything.
Catherine Teatum and Rob Jones color coded their latest wares to recognize the highs, lows, and in-betweens of any creative, confident, and smart woman. Neon pink floral, red organza, and magenta satin opened the show and followed with powder blue pajama style dressing. Chunky navy knits were shown alongside flowing pantsuits before things finally settled on a dreamy geometric jacquard white dress. All of this plus a diverse cast of models, how could you not be in love?
For Fall 2018, Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi of Preen were inspired by the haenyeo community of sea divers in Jeju, South Korea. The sea-diving industry dominated by women gave the couple ample opportunity to consider what the modern day eco-feminist would wear. References waded from literal to loose with feather heels that mimicked seaweed, scuba gear sprouting crinoline, bejeweled fish-net stockings, buoy bags, tight hoods, wetsuits, floral dresses with drawstring details and padded brocade kimono jackets.
Rejina Pyo used old family photos as the backstory for a collection reminiscent of preloved clothing. (How come our mom never gave us a crocodile box bag?) Two-in-one outwear offerings contrasted with buttons that took a detour from their functional form and Pyo’s signature elegant oversized garb was everywhere. From checked wool coats all the way to paper bag waist trousers. Basically, these clothes with a tale to tell have been given new life. And finally, a trench coat update we can get behind.
Using the beautiful beaches of St. Ives in Cornwall, England as his muse, Eudon Choi gave his tailored style a bit of…fisherman flair. His interpretations were subtle but effective; wide leg trouser suits, deconstructed shirts, knit jumpers, drawstring trousers and vinyl trench coats helped to conjure the coastal location. Looks were topped off with hats from Choi’s collaboration with milliner, Noel Stewart. And another great catch; square-toed shoes and tote bags courtesy of the brand Décke.
Serafina Sama of the label Isa Arfen made her runway debut this season, spurred by street market culture but also, a few other things. Balloon sleeve plaid blouses and tartan jumpers made things quintessentially British while taffeta bows and bold shoulders were evocative of the 80’s. And finally, a touch of Parisian French via velvet cocktail dresses and oversized berets. Standout pieces included bustiers cut asymmetrically and denim with plaid knee pads.
Christopher Kane designs with the art of seduction in mind and Fall 2018 was no exception. Lace bodycon dresses in varying lengths, Swarovski crystals over wool and black leather, plasticized floral dresses, prints inspired by illustrations from “The Joy of Sex”, and dresses that zipped—and unzipped vertically all embodied the rebellious feminine spirit we’ve come to expect from the Freud of fashion. That, and crystal studded orthopedic shoes because comfort is paramount to many things.
There’s no one that can marry youthfulness with impeccable tailoring quite like Paul Costelloe. Also, a leading example of the skirt suit done right. Ranging from plaid to geometric prints, shift dresses to baby doll dresses, and sharp shoulders to balloon sleeves, Costelloe manages to keep things cohesive. Instagram-worthy pieces involved latex, a roomy trench coat, and a bodycon sweater set. Call the look modern-day princess, complete with over the knee boots and bauble earrings.
Words by Hannah Rose Prendergast