NYFWM AW18 Recap
Death To Tennis
This season, with the goal of inciting a style war, Death To Tennis steered away from streetwear and toward something a little more…elevated. Staying true to their subversive yet impeccably tailored style, Vincent Oshin and William Watson made sure models were well equipped with multi-pocket belts—and two medics. Dark floral jacquard fabric evolved into an iridescent version for separates while denim, corduroy, sweats, and bomber jackets fulfilled the more practical side of things.
Luar’s “Pieces of Me”, aims to destroy the dichotomy between feminine and masculine in favor of a brighter, fluid future. “Feminine Destruction” indeed. Evolution and the meaning of life may seem like a lofty subject matter for an eighteen-piece collection, but Raul Lopez nails it. Exaggerated proportions, sheer fabrics, clothing on clothing, webbed pants, paint chips, and a bionic addition to the ugly sneaker trend were used to express individual journey and rebirth. P.S. if you got major Elvis jumpsuit vibes from some of the silhouettes, so did we.
Engineered For Motion boasts multi-functional pieces for the always on the go city dweller.
Donrad Duncan understands that clothes shouldn’t just move with your body, they should look good too. Silver hardware, plaid suits, hoodies under blazers, puffer jackets, and jogging pants kept things relaxed but edgy. While simple shapes mixed with graphic prints and bold patterning to culminate in the most innovative luxury sportswear around. And—Jazz Age styling confirms something we’ve known all along; all the cool guys play the trumpet.
ASOS made its first formal debut during NYFW with their menswear line. Male muses across the fashion, food, music, and social activism industries were cast as part of the ‘real people’ model movement. The Space Western inspired collection was complete with tassels, ranch scenery, denim on denim, a light pink rock studded suit, floral embroidered suede pants, and cowboy boots. When the head of men’s design for the company, Nick Eley, says that “The ASOS guy is going out more and is more confident with what he’s wearing”, we believe him.
Photo credit: FIRSTVIEW
TMALL CHINA DAY
Tmall China Day, the brainchild of the CFDA and one of China’s largest e-commerce sites, Alibaba Group, showcased the work of four Chinese designers: Li-Ning, Chen Peng, Peacebird, and CLOT.Sportswear giant, Li-Ning, was influenced by his days as a gold medal Olympian, turning out a collection of winning athletic apparel and outerwear. High-street brand, Peacebird, dolled out their usual youthful separates but this time, with an 80’s twist—and a collaboration with Coca-Cola. Chen Peng added puffer-style flower hats and dog-shaped handbags to his signature unisex down jacket. And streetwear label, CLOT, celebrated their 15th Anniversary Show with PAST. PRESENT. FUTURE.; a mix of reissued archival pieces with items part of the see-now-buy-now model.
This season in menswear was all about acknowledging the past, dealing with current change, and shaping a better future.
Words by Hannah Rose Prendergast