Magda Butrym

Ukuqopha Owesifazane Manje

amazwi kaNina Calder

UMagda Butrym akakaze ayiklamele okwamanje—udizayina abesifazane abayibumbayo. Embonini ehamba ngesivinini semijikelezo yethrendi kanye nama-algorithms ashintshayo, umsebenzi wakhe uhlukile, egxilile ekuthuleni kwenyama engavumi ukuxhamazela. Kukhona ngamabomu emhlabeni wakhe: ijika lerose elithungwe ngesandla, ukushuba kosilika, ukuhleba kokupholisha ehlombe eliklanywe ngokucijile. Ucezu ngalunye luzwakala njenge-artifact yempilo ehlalwa ngokuphelele, impilo lapho amandla ehliswa kancane, ngokomzwelo, futhi ngokujulile siqu.

Wazalelwa ePoland futhi manje echaza ulimi lomhlaba wonke lobufazi besimanje, I-Butrym yakhe ibhrendi esondelene njengoba ingowokwakha. Imiklamo yakhe iphethe okubili kowesifazane oqonda ukuthamba nokuqina hhayi njengokungqubuzana kodwa njengezixhumanisi—amaphuzu amabili abonisa isimo semizwa abesifazane abahamba ngaso nsuku zonke.. Usondela ezingutsheni njengomthwebuli wezithombe: ukunaka impilo yangaphakathi, izimemezelo ezithule, ukuhlubuka okucashile ekukhetheni ubuhle ngokwemibandela yomuntu siqu. Okumenza ahluke akukona nje ubuciko—nakuba ukuzinikela kwakhe emsebenzini wezandla kugxile ezintweni ezingokomoya—kuyindlela enqaba ngayo ukuthobisa umuzwa wemvelo.. Indawo yonke kaMagda Butrym yakhiwe abesifazane abangabanikazi babo, abamukela ezothando ngaphandle kokulahla igunya, abaqondayo ukuthi ubungozi kanye nezinzwa kungahlalisana ngaphakathi kwe-silhouette eyodwa. Njengoba engena esahlukweni esisha sokwanda nokuba nomthelela, I-Butrym isaqondiswa yinkanyezi yangaphakathi efanayo yasenyakatho: ukuthatheka ngobuqiniso kanye nenkolelo yokuthi izingubo zingabamba imizwelo ngendlela isikhumba esenza ngayo. Ezweni eligcwele ukusebenza, unikeza okuthile okuhlala njalo, isimemo sokubheka ngaphakathi, ukuzwa ngokujulile, kanye nokugqoka ngenhloso engaxolisi.

Umsebenzi wakho uphethe ukungezwani phakathi kwenkanuko ehlelekile kanye nezothando ezithambile. Uma uqala iqoqo elisha, isiphi isimo semizwa noma isimo sangaphakathi oklama kuso?

Njalo ngiqala ngomzwelo wemvelo, hhayi ubuhlakani. Akukaze kube mayelana nokwakha i-moodboard – imayelana nokubamba umuzwa, ukushuba okuthile emoyeni. Kwesinye isikhathi kuba umzuzu odlulayo emgwaqeni, inkumbulo, ukuma kowesifazane endaweni yokudlela, noma ngabe useWarsaw, Iparis, noma eNew York. Ngikhangwa ububili: ukuthamba okuphethe amandla, kanye nesakhiwo esisaphefumula.

Indlela yakho yokwenza umsebenzi wezandla ivamise ukuzizwa inobuciko, njengokwakha indawo yonke kunokuhlanganisa izingubo. Uwuchaza kanjani ukwakheka kwe-silhouette?

Kwami, i-silhouette ayakhiwe - iqoshiwe. Yakha imizwa emzimbeni wonke, kwesinye isikhathi abukhali, ngezinye izikhathi uketshezi, kodwa njalo ngamabomu. Ngifuna ikubambe, ukuzizwa njengenkumbulo noma isitatimende ongasigqoka.

Amagugu e-Polish kanye nobufazi besimanje buhlangana emsebenzini wakho ngezindlela ezicashile. Yiziphi izici zesizinda sakho samasiko ezisanomthelela ekukhetheni kwakho ngombala, ukuthungwa, noma ifomu?

Kwami, Ifa lasePoland limayelana nokuqhathanisa: ubusika obunzima kanye neleyisi entekenteke, ukhonkolo onesihluku nabesifazane abagqoka ngomcabango nesitayela. Lokho kushuba kuhlala kuphalethi yami – okubomvu okujulile, inky black, amazinyo endlovu athambile nasemigqeni efana nokukhilosha, intambo, kanye nokwaluka okugxile kakhulu esikweni lethu. Angicaphuni umlando wendabuko ngokwezwi nezwi. Ngihumusha lawo makhodi e-slavic amafomu esimanje njengehlombe elibukhali, ijazi elibaziwe, iduku, konke okuzwakala kubalulekile kwabesifazane namuhla.

Uke washo ngaphambili ukuthi abantu besifazane bagqugquzela konke okudalayo. Kushintshe kanjani ukuqonda kwakho ngobufazi-nokuthi udizayinelwe bani njengoba umkhiqizo wakho ukhula?

Njengoba umkhiqizo usukhulile, Ngiqonde nakakhulu ukuthi ubufazi abuyindaba eyodwa, kodwa abaningi. Namuhla ngidizayina abesifazane beminyaka eyahlukene, emadolobheni ahlukene, abavela ezizindeni ezihlukene, bonke abafuna ukuba yimyuziyamu yabo. Njengoba ngisho ku-manifesto yomkhiqizo wami, “Angifuni ukuzichaza”.

Ngifuna ukubanika okuthile okungabamba amandla abo, izinkanuko zabo, kanye nokuba sengozini kwabo ngesikhathi esifanayo.

Kukhona ukuthamba ezingxenyeni zakho okungasoze kwalahlekelwa unqenqema. Ulinganisela kanjani ukuba sengozini namandla ngaphakathi kwemiklamo yakho?

Kwami, ukuthamba namandla akukona okuphambene – bandawonye. Ngivame ukuqala kokuthile okuthenda, njengendwangu ewuketshezi, umhlane ongenalutho, noma imininingwane ye-rose, futhi uyiqinise ngokucaca: umugqa oqondile, ingxenye enesibindi, isimo sengqondo esithile. Njenge-banal njengoba kuzwakala, Ngikholelwa ngempela ukuthi ucezu olufanele lungavumela owesifazane ukuthi abonise ubungozi bakhe futhi azizwe elawula ngokuphelele.

Abaqambi abaningi bakhuluma ngama-muses, kodwa izingubo zakho zibonakala zibonisa imizwa ephilayo ngaphezu kwezibalo ezicatshangwayo. Imiphi imizwa, ukushukuma komzimba, noma izikhathi zempilo yangempela ezivamise ukushayela idizayini yakho?

Ngiyazifela ngalezo zikhathi eziphakathi: owesifazane elungisa ibhantshi lakhe, ngincike phezu kwetafula lekhefi, ephuma emotweni, futhi adonse ibhantshi lakhe kancane. Kuyingxube yokuzethemba nokungabaza, amandla nokungabaza okungithakaselayo. Lezi zincane, ukuthinta okungaphelele kukhona, kwami, ibukeka kanjani imnyuziyamu yangempela.

Owesifazane waseMagda Butrym uzizwa ehlala isikhathi eside futhi ephila ngesikhathi esifanayo. Ukugcina kanjani lokho kubili ngaphandle kokuncika ku-nostalgia noma umkhuba?

Anginandaba nezingubo ezikhala isizini eyodwa bese ngizizwa ngingalungile. Ngihlale ngizibuza ukuthi ngabe umuntu wesifazane usazozibona yini kulesi siqeshana eminyakeni ezayo. Ukungaphelelwa yisikhathi kuvela ekuthembekeni ekusikeni nasekuzizweni, kuyilapho uhlangothi lwesimanje luvela ekuphenduleni indlela abesifazane abaphila ngayo namuhla – isigqi sabo, imizi yabo, ubunkimbinkimbi babo.

Umsebenzi wakho uvame ukuhlanganisa imininingwane eyenziwe ngezandla kanye namasu obuciko. Kusho ukuthini "ubuciko" kuwe ngenkathi yejubane, ithonya ledijithali, kanye nokukhiqizwa ngobuningi?

Kwami, umsebenzi umayelana nesikhathi, ukuthinta, kanye nesibopho. Kusho ukusebenza eduze nezingcweti, ukuvumela ulwazi lwabo lulolonge ucezu, nokwamukela “ukungapheleli” okuncane okwenza into ethile izwakale iphila. Umhlaba wedijithali uyashesha futhi uyisicaba; ubuciko bunikeza ukujula – yilokho okwenza owesifazane afune ukugcina ucezu, hhayi nje njengaso emqulwini.

Uma iqoqo ngalinye liyisahluko, iyiphi indaba ozizwa uyibhala kuwo wonke umsebenzi wakho, kanti ungena kusiphi isahluko manje?

Ngiyazi kuzwakala sengathi ngilokhu ngiziphindaphinda, kodwa ukungaguquguquki kuyimantra yami. Ngikholelwa ngempela ukuthi bengibhala indaba eyodwa ende mayelana nowesifazane ofunda ukuba ngumnyuziyamu wakhe – ukwamukela amandla nokuzwela, ezothando neqiniso, konke ngesikhathi esisodwa. Izahluko zokuqala zazimayelana nokuchaza amakhodi; manje ngisesimweni esingokwemvelo, isigaba somuntu siqu, lapho ngizivumela khona ukuthi ngingesabi futhi ngibe sengozini emsebenzini – kuzwakala kuncane njengokuhlobisa impilo yowesifazane futhi kufana nokumenywa emhlabeni wakhe wangaphakathi.

Njengoba ucabanga ngekusasa lomkhiqizo wakho, yimiphi imibuzo ozibuza yona ngokudala noma ngokwefilosofi obungayibuzi ngenkathi uqala?

Manje ngizibuza kancane ukuthi “ngikhula kanjani?” nokunye “ngihlala kanjani ngithembekile ngenkathi sikhula.” Njengoba umkhiqizo unwebeka ngale kwezitolo eziku-inthanethi nezizakwethu, futhi silungiselela ukwembula iphrojekthi enkulu 2026, Ngizizwa nginomthwalo wemfanelo omkhulu nakakhulu wokuvikela ukusondelana, ubulungiswa, kanye nemizwa esenhliziyweni yalokho esikwenzayo. Ngobuchule, Nginentshisekelo yokugqoka abesifazane ngezikhathi ezahlukahlukene zosuku, izigaba ezahlukene zempilo yabo, ngaphandle kokunciphisa umbono oqondile owaqala lolu hambo.