Words by Hannah Prendergrast
Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue; menswear label N.Hoolywood had it all this season with their marriage of retro-inspired designs and modern silhouettes. Looks deceived as creator, Daisuke Obana, put a playful spin on items including a must-cop camo print in plum-khaki, shapeshifting layered jackets, backpacks that unzipped to reveal crossbody bags, and reversible knitwear that maximized the fall staple sweater’s potential. Also, hidden inside jackets were instructions on how to strip off the material in the event of a fire (surely caused by the heat from N. Hoolywood’s featured collaborations with Woolrich and New Balance.) And even though the letters of the company logo were scrambled and overlapping, the message was clear; this is not your run-of-the-mill utility wear.
photos provided N.Hoolywood
Dyne continued their story of sustainability this season with the theme, “Open Sourcing,” sprung from the beauty of the Oregon Painted Hills. An alumnus of FIT, Christopher Bevans took his FW19 presentation back to school for an eleven-piece collection enriched with classic tailoring and the brand’s signature tech sportswear. Materials were elevated through texture, bright neon colors, and most importantly, sustainability. In partnership with Taiwanese manufacturer Sabrina, Dyne turned out new weatherproof fabrics with upcycled and recycled properties. To further their focus was NFC chips displaying the company’s supply chain and fabric sourcing. Finally, their collaboration with Swarovski produced the Renzo Crew Top in crystal and pearls to the words “Hero” and “Save Us,” making it the most stylish SOS you’ve ever seen.
Photo credit Ryan Bevans for DYNE
Photo provided by Joseph Abboud
For FW19, Joseph Abboud paid homage to American immigrant passage through Ellis Island at the turn of the 20th century. To Abboud, the American Dream is worn with timeless, authentic, quality, all-embracing garments. Each came with their own story to tell as rough washes, raw edges, and unexpected texture and pattern combinations exuded a rustic charm. The preloved feel went into full force with mismatched buttons, sheared shoulders, and patches made from antique Kilim rugs while washed tweeds, vintage velvets, time-worn flannels, roomy trousers, and swaddling capes added to the workman-like tone. This carried through to accessories courtesy of milliner Albertus Swanepoel and footwear by Allen Edmonds. To sum up, Joseph Abboud’s latest offering is just as much about the journey and its discoveries as it is the destination.
It was that 70’s show this season at David Hart during his presentation in the Financial District. The designer used dark wood and warm earth tones characteristic of the period and recalled the uniform during the Watergate scandal: patterned suits with oversized lapels, colorfully knit polos, paisley scarves, and suede boots. With his business largely comprised of bespoke tailored red carpet suits, Hart’s clientele can expect a little more funk; think bolder, brighter and more fun. Sparkly embroidered brooches, grandpa glasses, and velvet all-seeing eye bow ties were in good company with silky button downs and bell bottoms. The real show stopper though was the closing look: a baby blue tux and ruffled blouse combo that was slightly evocative of Harry’s from Dumb and Dumber, only, this collection was nothing but sharp.
Photo provided by David Hart
Even though this season marked Victor Li’s sophomore collection, he’s already established himself as a top proprietor of sophisticated masculinity. Held at the Japan Society, Li’s FW19 presentation was inspired by his winter travels to Hokkaido, Japan. The designer asked himself what he would pack from a traveler’s perspective and answered with outfits including a taupe shearling flight jacket joined with pink cashmere sweatpants; a charcoal quilted kimono coat over a wool jersey suit; a blue snow strié suit matched with a white button down; and a leather drawstring parka paired with wool track pants. Add some duffel bags, a belt bag, and a leather backpack into the mix and you’re set! Giving new meaning to the words ‘traveling in first class,’ Victor Li has come prepared for a long stay in the world of menswear.
Photos provided by Victor Li