Fashion
NYFW:Men’s FW19
Round Up
Words by Hannah Prendergrast
N.Hoolywood
Something old, something new, something borrowed, something blue; menswear label N.Hoolywood had it all this season with their marriage of retro-inspired designs and modern silhouettes. Looks deceived as creator, Daisuke Obana, put a playful spin on items including a must-cop camo print in plum-khaki, shapeshifting layered jackets, backpacks that unzipped to reveal crossbody bags, and reversible knitwear that maximized the fall staple sweater’s potential. Uga, hidden inside jackets were instructions on how to strip off the material in the event of a fire (surely caused by the heat from N. Hoolywood’s featured collaborations with Woolrich and New Balance.) And even though the letters of the company logo were scrambled and overlapping, the message was clear; this is not your run-of-the-mill utility wear.
photos provided N.Hoolywood
Dyne
Dyne continued their story of sustainability this season with the theme, “Open Sourcing,” sprung from the beauty of the Oregon Painted Hills. An alumnus of FIT, Christopher Bevans took his FW19 presentation back to school for an eleven-piece collection enriched with classic tailoring and the brand’s signature tech sportswear. Materials were elevated through texture, bright neon colors, and most importantly, sustainability. In partnership with Taiwanese manufacturer Sabrina, Dyne turned out new weatherproof fabrics with upcycled and recycled properties. To further their focus was NFC chips displaying the company’s supply chain and fabric sourcing. Finally, kolaborasi karo Swarovski ngasilake Renzo Crew Top ing kristal lan mutiara kanthi tembung "Pahlawan" lan "Simpen Kita.,"dadi SOS paling apik sing wis sampeyan deleng.
Kredit foto Ryan Bevans kanggo DYNE
Foto diwenehake dening Joseph Abboud
Yusuf
Kanggo FW19, Joseph Abboud menehi penghormatan marang para imigran Amerika liwat Pulo Ellis ing wiwitan abad kaping 20. Bali menyang Abboud, American Dream wis worn karo langgeng, asli, Kualitas, sandhangan kabeh-ngrangkul. Saben wong teka karo critane dhewe-dhewe kanggo nyritakake minangka ngumbah kasar, pinggiran mentah, lan kombinasi tekstur lan pola sing ora dikarepke ngetokake pesona pedesaan. Rasa preloved dadi kekuwatan lengkap kanthi tombol sing ora cocog, pundhak dicukur, lan patch digawe saka karpet Kilim antik nalika tweeds sakabeheng, beludru vintage, flanel lawas, celonone jembar, and swaddling capes added to the workman-like tone. This carried through to accessories courtesy of milliner Albertus Swanepoel and footwear by Allen Edmonds. To sum up, Joseph Abboud’s latest offering is just as much about the journey and its discoveries as it is the destination.
David Hart
It was that 70’s show this season at David Hart during his presentation in the Financial District. The designer used dark wood and warm earth tones characteristic of the period and recalled the uniform during the Watergate scandal: patterned suits with oversized lapels, colorfully knit polos, paisley scarves, and suede boots. With his business largely comprised of bespoke tailored red carpet suits, Hart’s clientele can expect a little more funk; think bolder, brighter and more fun. Sparkly embroidered brooches, kaca tingal mbah, lan dasi busur mripat sing katon apik banget karo kancing sutra lan ngisor lonceng. Stopper nuduhake nyata sanadyan ana tampilan nutup: Tux biru bayi lan kombo blus ruffled sing rada evocative saka Harry saka Dumb lan Dumber, mung, koleksi iki ora mung cetha.
Foto diwenehake dening David Hart
Victor Li
Sanajan musim iki ditandhani koleksi kaping pindho Victor Li, dheweke wis netepake awake dhewe minangka pemilik utama maskulinitas sing canggih. Dianakaké ing Japan Society, Presentasi FW19 Li diilhami dening perjalanan musim dingin menyang Hokkaido, Jepang. Desainer takon dhewe apa sing bakal dikemas saka perspektif wong sing lelungan lan mangsuli nganggo rasukan kalebu jaket penerbangan shearling abu-abu sing digabung karo celana kasmir pink.; jas kimono quilted areng liwat setelan jersey wool; setelan strié salju biru sing cocog karo tombol putih mudhun; lan parka tali kulit sing dipasangake karo celana trek wol. Tambah sawetara tas ransel, tas sabuk, lan tas ransel kulit menyang campuran lan sampeyan wis disetel! Menehi makna anyar kanggo tembung 'lelungan ing kelas siji,' Victor Li wis siyap kanggo tetep suwe ing jagad busana pria.
Foto diwenehake dening Victor Li