跑道
PYER MOSS
Words by Sharon Edelson
攝影：Tone Woolfe
談談你嘅發明父母.
Pyer Moss設計師Kerby Jean-Raymond為佢嘅首場高級定製時裝騷所做嘅不僅僅昰談話. 讓-雷蒙德（ Jean-Raymond ）用一系列軟雕塑服裝取悅咗佢嘅觀眾，例如毛絨花生醬罐——乔治·華盛頓·卡佛（ George Washington Carver ）發現嘅眾多花生之一——以及美國黑人嘅眾多創新之一。.
以一種既鼓舞人心又具有象徵意義嘅姿態, Jean-Raymond喺Villa Lewaro舉辦時裝騷, 歐文頓嘅一個莊園, 紐約, 係第一位黑人女性白手起家嘅百萬富翁嘅屋企, C.J女士. 沃克, 世衛組織成功開發了一系列護髮產品. 原訂於上周四舉行嘅演出被暴雨澆滅, 但周六讓-雷蒙德嘅第二張照片上顯示嘅太陽.
喺佢嘅表演筆記中, 讓-雷蒙德話，C.J女士. 获加嘅財富不僅僅昰金錢, 並補充說黑人繁榮開始了 "在腦海中, 在精神上, 彼此之間. 她知道，任何一美元都無法滿足自由的代價——綠紙和銅幣永遠無法修補靈魂。, heal hearts or under the evil we've had to endure."
So Jean-Raymond did Madam Walker proud. He paid homage to Black American inventions overlooked by history and said ayahuasca helped him find the inspiration for his first Couture collection, which was accepted by the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode in Paris, making him the first Black designer to win a coveted spot on the French calendar.
"Wat U Iz," the name of the collection, drew a host of celebrities from the worlds of music, Hollywood, 時尚, and more, with A$AP Ferg, Tracee Ellis Ross, Aurora James, Law Roach, 24Golden, Joey Badass, among others.
The collection was plenty campy at times. Jean-Raymond didn't take himself or the inventions too seriously. After all, the collection included a cape and head-piece made of hot curlers wrapped with hair, a ruched silk jersey corseted and hand-beaded dress with matching bespoke lampshade hat richly embellished in Swarovski crystals, and a portable air conditioning unit attached to a frame held by a model wearing a yellow gown.
"Everybody's inviting a narrative," Jean-Raymond said. "If you'd seen my work when I was 16 and doing T-shirts, it's the same. I've just updated my work, but I've never really changed the ethos of it. I want people to experience that black culture is not a dirty thing. It's the creativity, inventions and ingenuity that contributed to [our] independence."
There may also be some debt owed to Moschino's campier creations by Jeremy Scott, whose tongue-in-chic designs poke fun at the fashion industry by not taking themselves too seriously – think of the cartoonish Marie Antoinette dresses and wedding cake extravaganza – but Pyer Moss' designs are imbued with deeper meaning, shedding light on inventors who've been canceled or merely forgotten by the culture at large.
The looks resided at the intersection of fashion and art with soft sculpture for some designs, and others involved welding and fiberglass molding. A giant hand-shaped puffer coat enveloping a mannequin was holding a mop – the invention – while another model wearing a stunning pale blue gown with cutouts held a life-size horseshoe. A soft-serve ice cream top with rivulets of sprinkles was paired with oversize chaps that looked like ice cream cones. And so it went. Visual puns and stunners, such as a white Avant guard suit with a belt of black and white typewriter keys came out of the mansion to the music of 22gz and the sound of commanding drums.
There were fire escapes on a model wearing a red and orange body leotard and a pair of handlebars and metal skirt worn over a white bodysuit. A refrigerator with alphabet magnets spelled out, "And who invented Black trauma," in keeping with Jean-Raymond's activist side and challenging the audience to think as well as see the spectacles. That and the incredible construction elevated the collection well above costume. With this freshman show under his belt, we are all eagerly awaiting couture 2.
