Usiko
Umgwaqo utini
Umgwaqo utini: Imicu yememori kanye nesimanje
Amagama ngu-Teneshia Carr
Izithombe Ngomusa we-EFI
EMilan Fashion Week, Ngesikhathi se-Sleek façades of design izindlu kanye ne-echo yamakhamera, kwenzeke indaba ethule, eyodwa eyayiqale hhayi e-atheliers yaseYurophu kodwa emasimini kakotini aseNtshonalanga Afrika. Umgwaqo utini: Uhambo olusuka embewini luya engubo, kwethulwe yi Isinyathelo semfashini sokuziphatha (I-EFI) ngokubambisana ne 10 I-combo na- Studios yasentwasahlobo, kumenywe izivakashi ukuthi zilandele indlela kakotini kusuka embewini kuya kwisifakeli semfashini, kukhanyisa izandla eziningi, umlando, nemibono yokudala yafaka kuyo yonke i-fiber.
Umcimbi wenzeka kusuka ngoSepthemba 25 kwa- 28 e- 10 I-combo, lapho lo mbukiso uguqula isitolo se-Iconic Milan Concept esitolo esicwilisweni, kungobo yomlando wokuphila. Izivakashi zazulazula isithombe sokubona okubonisa impilo yekotoni, Kusukela emasimini aseBenin naseBurkina Faso, Ukuhamba ngokusebenzisa amasolo kanye nodayi wedayi wezingcweti zendawo, futhi ekugcineni ufika ezandleni zabaklami besimanje ukusuka ezwenikazi lonke. Umphumela waba ukulandisa kwendawo okuphonsela inselelo izilaleli ukubona ukotini kungeyona nje into eluhlaza kodwa njengomkhumbi wememori, ukufuduka, nencazelo.
I-EFI ibisebenza entshonalanga yekotoni ukotini chain kusukela 2012, Ukusekela okungaphezulu kwe 4,000 Izingcweti kanye nabakhiqizi abancane ngenkathi beqinisa imikhuba esimeme futhi etholile. Ixhaswe yi-European Union kanye nohlelo olunobungane lwe-OACPS, Lolu hlelo lunike amandla izingcweti ukuthi zikwazi ukukhiqizwa ngaphandle kokuyekethisa ifa labo, eshaya ibhalansi ezwakalayo embonini isabuswa yi-opacity kanye nemfucuza.
Ulahlwe ngaphansi kokuqondisa kokudala kwe IRichmond Orlando Mensah, Umsunguli we Manju Journal, Umbukiso wahlukaniswa phakathi kwegumbi lephrojekthi negumbi le-mezzanine le 10 I-combo. UMensah wakhonza njenge-Science, Ukuguqula lezi zikhala zombili ukulandisa okuhlangenwe nakho okufiphele imigqa phakathi kwegalari nengubo. "Bengifuna ukudala isikhala esingevele nje siveze izinto kodwa sibeka izindaba," Wabelana. "Izivakashi zihamba ngombukiso cishe kungathi zihamba ngohambo lukakotini, ngokusebenzisa izisebenzi, ubulungiswa, nemicabango. "
Leyo nhloso yayiphethwe ngendlela elula, ukuthungwa, futhi ukunyakaza kusebenze ndawonye. Izindonga zezindwangu ezihlanganisiwe zendwangu ezakhiwe zevidiyo ze-Artisans emsebenzini; Amatafula kakotini eliluhlaza akhishwe ekubonisweni kwezindwangu ezidayiwe nezifekethisiwe. Yonke imininingwane igcizelela umbono wokuthi izinto ziphatha izindaba, kwesinye isikhathi ukungcwatshwa, kwesinye isikhathi bahlebeze, Kepha njalo lapho ekhona. "Ithemba lami," Kungezwe uMensah, "Ngabe abantu bashiya ngokuqwashisa okujulile kokuthi design nendwangu kungenza lezo zindaba zibonakala kanjani."
Umbukiso we-Excrive's Creative Core oveze abaklami abahlanu abakhethwe yi-EFI ukudala okukodwa kubukeke ezintweni zokwakha zasendaweni namasu endabuko: Sean Nokhaye (Uhlobo), Gaïkwazi (Burkina Faso), Uhlobo (I-Ivory Coast), Nunu d (Umantana), na- Umsizi (Ihlosi). Umklami ngamunye wasebenzisana nokuqoqwa kwe-Artisanal, Njengama-CAB, Tudiyo 4, neKoyakit, ekhombisa indlela design ingasebenza kanjani njengebhuloho phakathi kwesiko kanye nokwenziwa okusha. Kusuka kumadayi asuselwa kwizitshalo ukuze akwazi ukufezekisa kanye nomsebenzi wobuhlalu, Lezi zingubo zichaze kabusha "ukunethezeka" ngelensi yokuxhumana komuntu.
Ngaphandle kombukiso, Umgwaqo utini Ibanjwe umjikelezo womphakathi ngoSepthemba 26, Ukunwebisa ingxoxo kusuka kugalari ku-Dialogue. Kuhlolwe yimi I-Blanc Magazine, Iphaneli laqoqa umlaza wamazwi, Umculi we-Fromean Textile Damien ajavon, Umqambi weMilan U-Edward Buchanan, Michelle Francine Ngonmo ye-Afro Fashion Association, na- IRichmond Orlando Mensah ngokwakhe, Ukuxoxa ngekusasa lemfashini ngokubonakala, ubunini, kanye nokuxoxa kwezindaba kwamasiko. Kwakungeyona ingxoxo mayelana nokufakwa njengenkambiso; Kwakumayelana nengqalasizinda, ukulobisela, nezinhlelo ezichaza inani.
Ye-Orlando, Ngubani oye wasebenzisa iphephabhuku le-Manju njengeplatifomu yokufaka umlando nokukhulisa ubuciko base-Afrika, Iphrojekthi yaqala ngokujulile. "UManju ubelokhu edala isikhala sezingxoxo ezizungeze isimemezelo samasiko ase-Afrika namagugu," wachaza. "Ukuba yingxenye yomgwaqo ukotini kwangivumela ukuba ngihumushe lezo zinhlaka zibe yinto ebukhoma, eyodwa evutha umlando, ukubaluleka, nokwakhiwa kwesimanje ngendlela ezwakalayo. "
Lelo gama-liphila-liphindwe kulo lonke isonto. Ku-hum of the loom, isigqi sendwangu edayiwe esoma elangeni, ukungapheleli okucashile kwendwangu eyenziwe ngezandla. Umbukiso wamelana nobuhle obucacile bokuboniswa; esikhundleni, idonswe ngokusebenza kanye nohlu. Kwakuyisikhumbuzo sokuthi zonke izingubo, Akunandaba ukuthi kucwengeke kangakanani, iqala ngembewu, isandla, nokukhetha.
Ngezindlela eziningi, Umgwaqo utini uzizwe njengesibuko kuma-Crossroads wemfashini wamanje. Njengoba imboni yomhlaba wonke inezimpophoma ngokuqina, isizinda, kanye nobunikazi bamasiko, Lo mbukiso wanikeza imodeli egxilile hhayi emuzini kodwa kungenzeka, Umbukiso osobala ongaba khona ngokusobala, ukuthi izimiso zokuziphatha zingaba nobuhle.
Ukuhamba 10 I-combo, umuntu angabona ukuthi kukhona okuguqukayo. Umshinikhathi, kuchazwa isikhathi eside ngokuqedwa kwayo kokuqeda, wabheka ngaphakathi, kokungaqediwe, Abahlanzekile, okungabonakali. Futhi kuleso sikhala phakathi kwe-fiber nefomu, Umgwaqo utini wasicela ukuthi sicabangele ukuthi ikusasa lemfashini kungenzeka lingabi yilokho okulandelayo, Kepha ngalokho esikukhethayo ukukhumbula.