Fashoni
Camp: Zvinyorwa zveFashoni
Chitubu cheCostume Institute 2019 kuratidzwa kuThe Metropolitan Museum of Art
Mashoko naHannah Rose Prendergast
Chitubu cheMET Gala 2019 kuratidzwa, Camp: Zvinyorwa zveFashoni, inotarisa kusimba kweCamp kubva kunharaunda yakasarudzika nzira yese kusvika kusimba rayo pamagariro emazuva ano epop.. Kubatsira kutungamira dingindira regore rino mazwi akanyorwa nemunyori akanonoka Susan Sontag maari 1964 chinyorwa ‘Notes on Camp.’
Kuedza kutsikisa Camp hakusi nyore-inonzvenga kubatwa uye inowanzosungirirwa kune zvinoreva fashoni.. As curator Andrew Bolton puts it “Fashion is the most overt and enduring conduit of the Camp aesthetic.” Existing in most forms of artistic expression to toe the line between contemporary and high art, Camp expresses itself using “irony, humor, parody, pastiche, artifice, theatricality, and exaggeration.”
Derived from the French term “se camper,” camp first appeared in the 1600s when there was an “extraordinary feeling for artifice, for surface, and for symmetry.” During the Victorian era, Camp emerged as the stereotype of “effeminate aristocrat”—one that Sontag dedicated to Oscar Wilde. Interestingly enough, zvakadaro, her seminal work undermines the queerness that is Camp, particularly as a signaling practice. "Mumwe anonzwa kuti dai ngochani dzakange dzisina kunyanya kugadzira Camp, mumwe munhu angadaro,” Sontag anonyora. Mushure mekunge ungochani hwakarambidzwa muBritain mu 1967, Musasa wakawedzera kuwanda uye kure netsika dzengochani. Nhasi, Musasa unokodzera sechinhu chero chipi zvacho “chakanyanya kugadzirwa, vakanganiswa, zvisina kufanira, kana kuti dzechinyakare zvokuti dzinorangarirwa kuva dzinosetsa.”
The showcases 250 zvinhu, kusanganisira zvipfeko zvevakadzi, zvipfeko zvevarume, zvivezwa, mifananidzo, uye mifananidzo kubva muzana remakore rechi17 kusvika nhasi. Pakati pevakagadziri ndiAlexander McQueen, Christian Dior, Cristobal Balenciaga, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jeremy Scott, John Galliano, Marc jacobs, Thom Browne, Viktor & Rolf, Vivienne Westwood, uye Virgil Abloh's Off-White. Gucci inoratidzwawo zvine mukurumbira semutsigiri weGala yegore rino, inova sarudzo inopfuura yakakodzera imba iyo yakazvipira kuCamp senge pasina imwe. Zvinonyatso kuratidza pfungwa iyi ndeye polarizing maitiro e 'Flashtrek' sneakers avo: unovada, kana kuti unovavenga kana sekutaura kunoita Sontag, "Zvakanaka nekuti zvakaipa."
Chero mamiriro ezvinhu, Musasa hauzvitore zvakanyanya. Nekutenderera kwakafanana sejasi reTomo Koizumi, kuedza kutsanangura Camp vari, mukati uye mavari, Camp. Camp: Zvinyorwa muFashoni inoonekwa paMET kubva muna Chivabvu 9 kusvika munaSeptember 8, 2019.
