Barcelona Fashion Week FW19

برنامه نمایش ها در بارسلونا ترکیبی از لباس های زنانه و مردانه بود که به طور تصادفی در هر روز تغییر می کردند., و عمدتا شامل نمایش های جنسیت مختلط است. ما شاهد نمایش هایی از طراحان تثبیت شده در اسپانیا بودیم که فصول زیادی در بارسلونا نمایش داده اند, طراحان اسپانیایی نوظهور جدیدتر و همچنین نمایش های مهمان از برندهایی که در شهرهای دیگر در سراسر جهان مستقر هستند - از جمله کسانی که قبلا در پاریس نمایش داده بودند, لندن و میلان. چند نمایش برجسته وجود داشت, و رویداد چهار روزه با اهدای جوایز با اهدای جوایز برای «بهترین مجموعه» و «بهترین طراح نوظهور» به پایان رسید. (و البته یک مهمانی بزرگ).

زی گارسیا

کارخانه خلاق کوچک جای تعجب نداشت (به طور مشترک) برنده شد 080 جایزه "بهترین طراح".. به دلیل اینکه این برند یک برند بین المللی پوشاک کودکان بود، این یک نمایش بسیار تبلیغاتی بود, نمایش لباس زنانه برای اولین بار. از همان ابتدا یک نمایش بصری قابل توجه بود, افتتاحیه با نورپردازی دراماتیک روی گروهی از رقصندگان باله با سرهای آفتابگردان زرد روشن, که روال زیبایی را در باند انجام داد. در طول نمایش مد ادامه دارد, رقصندگان باله بین مدل ها پاشیده شدند, dressed in collection looks; performing pirouettes and strutting the runway on their points. There was a mixture of large structured hairstyles and huge sculpted wigs worn by both models and dancers. The collection itself used materials such as wool, linen, and neoprene to create elaborate, timeless designs full of detail. The colors were camel and ochre, combined with cream and black tones. Many of the looks featured aprons and overalls symbolizing a past era of work-wear. با این حال, the designs retained a contemporary aesthetic through sharp silhouettes and the use of latex accessories and belts. Sporadically children walked the runway accompanied with an adult counterpart in a matching outfit. The designer Cristina Fernàndez closed the show by walking out with her own child to a room full of cheering and applause. It was undoubtedly an unforgettable show!

Little Creative Factory

Antonio Miro

Antonio Miro was the joint winner of the 080 جایزه "بهترین طراح". - the label has previously won this award twice in the years 2018 وت 2016, it is an established brand having created designs for both men and women for 40 years, however the design team constantly work to target the contemporary market and aren’t afraid to shy away from sensuality. The show was evenly mixed across menswear and womenswear with key looks across both sections, the predominant color throughout was definitely black, with white shirts and several sheer pieces included; as well as blends of leather, silk, and tulle. We saw a mixture of seductively cut pieces and sharp tailoring in this show. The womenswear mainly showcased mini dresses or blazers and cigarette pantsuits. Another predominant theme throughout the collection was the use of big shoulders and ruffles, giving us all of the glam-punk 80s feels reminiscent of a Hedi Slimane YSL runway.

The winner of the coveted ‘Emerging Designer Award’ was Mans Concept Menswear. The brand’s Sevillian designer Jaime Álvare has won this award twice already at the young age of 24. This Autumn/Winter 2019 collection was undoubtedly his strongest yet, entitled "Road to Goa”. It continued to showcase his complex pattern designs with bold use of bright colors and mixed textures. Many of the looks featured both hand-embroidered fabrics and laser-cut pieces. چند تا از مدل ها عمامه می پوشیدند, و یک وابستگی فرهنگی فوری از طریق گرم وجود داشت, رنگ های روشن و بافت های ابریشمی برای خیابان های هند. طراح بیان می کند که قطعات برای بازسازی فضای بازار پر جنب و جوش طراحی شده اند, اشباع از بوها و صداها, داد و ستد جمعیت. رنگ ها از خشکی تا دریا متغیر است, ترکیب آبی, لیموها, فوشیا و سایه های نارنجی که اشاره ای به ادویه های هندی بود. جریان از کت و شلوار مناسب به لباس های خیابانی معاصر و تی شرت های شعاری موفقیت آمیز بود, و اگرچه این مجموعه انبوهی از حالات و سبک های مختلف را به نمایش گذاشت, موجز به نظر می رسید. کاپشن های یقه بزرگ و بزرگ برجسته بودند, مانند کیف های مسافرتی اسپرت در پالت رنگ اصلی روشن مجموعه.

لباس مردانه مفهومی مردانه

جدا از برندگان جوایز, there were several other great shows of note during Barcelona Fashion Week. One of which was, البته, Umit Benan who has been running his very successful eponymous line since 2009, in that time winning multiple awards and taking over as the Creative Director of Trussardi for mens, womens and accessories 2011-2013. In a press conference during this Fashion Week, Umit told us that after previously showing in Milan and Paris, he welcomed the change of location to Barcelona which feels fresh and exciting. During this meeting, Benan explained the inspiration behind this collection, which is Part 2 of the collective named “God is Black”. Here he represents the controversial character of the black Muslim who faces two forms of racism, featured as a double enemy, in today’s society. He wanted to ensure the collection was complete with cultural signifiers such as the tekke skull hat and the caftan. The show was dramatic and opened with Islamic Prayer calls and models praying on their knees. The runway looks were boldly sartorial combining field jackets, leisure suits, caftans, outerwear, and knitwear. It was clear Benan emphasized a dignity in presenting these men to the world for who they are. The result was both masculine and spiritual, with a focus on real wearable garments to be worn by everyday men. (Maybe we can exclude the full metallic gold tunic from that). But this was a strong collection for Umit Benan that will undoubtedly do well across territories.

Umit Benan